{"title":"Pre-cleaner","description":"","products":[{"product_id":"soft99-stain-cleaner-vorreiniger-500ml","title":"Stain Cleaner Pre-Cleaner","description":"\u003ch2\u003eThe master of stain removal is the Soft99 Stain Cleaner Pre-Cleaner 500ml\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMeet the \u003cstrong\u003eSoft99 Stain Cleaner Pre-Cleaner 500ml\u003c\/strong\u003e, your go-to for the dirt that won't budge. This punchy cleaner pulls off stains your regular shampoo just slides over, with no abrasives in the mix, so your paint stays safe. Spray it on, wipe it off - car care has never been this easy. And the best part: the fresh grapefruit scent turns every clean-up into something you actually enjoy.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePunchy formula\u003c\/strong\u003e: lifts off even the most stubborn grime without breaking a sweat.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePaint-safe\u003c\/strong\u003e: no abrasives, safe on every type of paint.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEasy to use\u003c\/strong\u003e: quick and fuss-free, with a lovely grapefruit scent.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eStain removal that actually works\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSoft99 Stain Cleaner Pre-Cleaner 500ml\u003c\/strong\u003e is the answer when you're fighting dirt that just won't let go of your car. Thanks to its clever formula, built to cut through the tricky stuff, this cleaner gives you a proper deep clean. Oil, grease or baked-on road grime - it takes them all on and leaves the surface gleaming.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSafe on your paint\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWith car care, safety comes first. The \u003cstrong\u003eSoft99 Stain Cleaner Pre-Cleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e is free of abrasives, which means it won't mark your paint. That makes it spot-on for regular use and good to go on every type of paint. Clean your car as often as you like, no worrying about scratches or wear.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eEasy, with a scent you'll love\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUsing the \u003cstrong\u003eSoft99 Stain Cleaner Pre-Cleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e couldn't be simpler: shake, spray, wipe - done! No long soaking, no elbow-grease scrubbing. And as a bonus, it gives off a fresh grapefruit scent that turns car care into something genuinely pleasant.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Soft99","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48130380824911,"sku":"D1-S99-00495","price":11.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/soft99-stain-cleaner-vorreiniger-500ml.jpg?v=1707511788"},{"product_id":"koch-chemie-vorreiniger-b-vb-vorreiniger","title":"Vorreiniger B \"Vb\" Pre-Cleaner","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eThe alkaline pre-wash with the Koch-Chemie Vorreiniger B\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eThe Koch-Chemie Vorreiniger B is a highly concentrated alkaline pre-cleaner at pH 13.1 for the touchless vehicle pre-wash. Phosphate-free, VDA-compliant in Class A and B, fast-separating to ÖNORM 5106 and packing corrosion inhibitors for anodised aluminium. Not a mild snow foam for active coatings — a workshop-grade alkaline cleaner for real dirt.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eKoch Chemie Vorreiniger B\u003c\/strong\u003e is a high-alkaline pre-cleaner concentrate from Koch-Chemie in Unna that chemically lifts insects, bird droppings, road grime and wheel soiling before the actual car wash. At pH 13.1, this pre-cleaner sits in the professional segment between a medium-strength foam pre-cleaner and an industrial alkaline cleaner. The mix of powerful chelating agents and special surfactants tackles organic and inorganic deposits at the same time — exactly what high-throughput wash tunnels and vehicle detailers need.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/d1_koch-chemie-vorreiniger-b-vb-vorreiniger_hero.jpg?v=1776198373\" alt=\"Koch-Chemie Vorreiniger B Vb in the Detailing1 warehouse\" loading=\"lazy\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;display:block;margin:1.5em 0;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003epH 13.1 pulls off insects and brake dust in one pass.\u003c\/strong\u003e The blend of chelating agents and special surfactants works on organic deposits like insect splatter and bird droppings as well as on inorganic wheel soiling at the same time. One product replaces two steps — and that saves time, water and product.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eVDA-compliant in Class A and B.\u003c\/strong\u003e One of the few pre-cleaners with a double VDA rating: 1:300 with up to 5 minutes dwell time (Class A) or 1:30 with a maximum of 1 minute (Class B). Wash line and hand wash covered with a single product.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCorrosion inhibitors for anodised aluminium.\u003c\/strong\u003e The inhibitors protect sensitive parts despite pH 13.1 — which matters for vehicles with visible aluminium components, alkali-resistant painted alloy wheels and chrome trim.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Never lay the Vorreiniger B down on hot or sun-warmed surfaces. Above 30 degrees paint temperature the cleaner flashes off before the dwell time is up — leaving dull streaks that only come off with polish. Before you start, move the vehicle into the shade or rinse it down with cold water first. In full summer sun, reach for the milder Pre-Foam efficient instead, which is far more forgiving with its 1-minute maximum dwell time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003e1:30 for insects. 1:300 for high pressure.\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDilution depends on how dirty the vehicle is and how you apply it. 1:30 to 1:50 for the pre-wash, 1:3 to 1:10 for heavily soiled wheels, 1:300 for self-service high-pressure units.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor the touchless pre-wash with a foam lance you work at 1:30 to 1:50. One litre of concentrate at 1:50 gives you 51 litres of ready-to-use solution — enough for roughly 20 to 25 cars in standard exterior care.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe foam lance should run at 0.8 to 1.2 litres per minute flow so the foam consistency is right and the cleaner clings to vertical panels long enough to do its job. Apply the pre-cleaner from the bottom up onto the cold, pre-wetted vehicle — that way you avoid run marks on unevenly dried panels. After 5 minutes dwell time at most (VDA Class A), rinse off thoroughly with the pressure washer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn self-service wash bays, 1:300 is enough — that's the high-volume dilution and it cuts product use noticeably over a full year. For wheel cleaning you work at 1:3 to 1:10, sprayed straight onto the cold dry wheel, left to dwell for 1 minute at most, then rinsed. Important: don't use it on hot brake discs or warm wheels. The heat speeds up the reaction in an uncontrolled way and raises the risk of dulling on painted alloy wheels.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor wash tunnels with conveyor lines you typically run 1:100 to 1:200. Dwell time in the tunnel is usually 30 to 60 seconds, which still keeps you safely inside the VDA-B limit of 1 minute. The higher dilution cuts foam volume at the spray arch but keeps enough cleaning power thanks to the high active-ingredient concentration. With high vehicle throughput it pays to switch to the 225 kg container — a better price per litre of concentrate.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor copolymer de-waxing — stripping old preservatives before a fresh sealant — 1:5 to 1:10 is the right dilution. The Koch Chemie Vorreiniger B reliably lifts polymerised wax layers. That's a step many other alkaline \u003ca href=\"\/en\/collections\/vorreiniger\"\u003epre-cleaners\u003c\/a\u003e don't cover. After that the paint can go straight to a fresh \u003ca href=\"\/en\/collections\/versiegelungen\"\u003esealant\u003c\/a\u003e — saving a separate de-waxing step with IPA or silicone remover.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/d1_koch-chemie-vorreiniger-b-vb-vorreiniger_anwendung.jpg?v=1776198374\" alt=\"Koch-Chemie Vorreiniger B applied with a foam lance in the warehouse\" loading=\"lazy\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;display:block;margin:1.5em 0;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the workshop-grade alkaline cleaner stops. No snow foam replacement.\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Koch Chemie Vorreiniger B is not a mild foam pre-cleaner for coating-protected vehicles. pH 13.1 is workshop level — strong, uncompromising, but sensitive in use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIts strength is on heavily soiled vehicles with insect, bird-dropping and road residue after a long motorway run or after winter. It also works reliably on baked-on brake dust on steel wheels and on alkali-resistant painted alloy wheels. The foam is functional — not the show foam you get from classic snow-foam products, but a working foam that clings to vertical panels.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNow the honest read on the limits. First, the Vorreiniger B is not friendly to active ceramic coatings. Used regularly on coating-protected vehicles it breaks the coating down faster than a pH-neutral pre-wash foam does. For vehicles with an active coating, the milder Pre-Foam efficient is the better call. Second, don't use it on polished aluminium or chrome surfaces — despite the corrosion inhibitors, pH 13.1 can dull untreated light metals. The inhibitors protect anodised alloy, not bare alloy.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThird: it is not paint-surface gentle in the sense of a hand-wash chemistry. If you look after your new car with the two-bucket method and a mild car shampoo, you don't need a Vorreiniger B in the garage. Its job starts where hand washing no longer cuts it — on heavily soiled vehicles, commercial fleets, utility vehicles and construction machinery.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProtective gear is a must, not optional. Nitrile gloves and safety glasses when mixing and applying. On skin contact, rinse straight away with plenty of water and remove residue with mild soap. Never leave the concentrate bottle open — the fumes from the alkaline cleaner irritate airways and mucous membranes on longer exposure. Close it well after use and store it frost-free and dark.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe material compatibility of the Vorreiniger B has clear limits. Allowed: steel, anodised aluminium, alkali-resistant painted surfaces, glass and standard automotive plastics. Not allowed: polished light metals, bare chrome surfaces, coloured anodised layers (risk of discolouration) and matt-painted surfaces without a protective film. When in doubt, test on an inconspicuous spot before the first application and watch it for 3 minutes — it costs little time and saves expensive damage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/d1_koch-chemie-vorreiniger-b-vb-vorreiniger_ergebnis.jpg?v=1776199899\" alt=\"Koch-Chemie Vorreiniger B workshop-grade alkaline cleaner pH 13.1\" loading=\"lazy\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;display:block;margin:1.5em 0;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWho the Vorreiniger B is for — from the pro to the home garage\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Koch Chemie Vorreiniger B is built for pros and experienced home users with know-how in alkaline chemistry. For beginners without protective gear and experience it's not the right choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor wash lines, vehicle detailers, workshops and self-service bay operators it's a standard tool. The 22 kg and 225 kg containers cover commercial demand. The 5 kg, 11 kg and 1 litre versions are aimed at single users, smaller workshops and experienced private buyers with their own high-pressure kit.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1-litre container is the right way in to test the product and the dilution on your own vehicle before moving up to larger quantities. The first time you mix it, work with a calibrated measuring jug — go by eye and most beginners land far too concentrated, which loads the material needlessly and encourages streaking.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you want a mild, coating-friendly pre-wash foam, you're better off with the Pre-Foam efficient. If you supply express wash lines with extremely short dwell times, reach for the Pre-Wash B. If you need the strongest cleaner for baked-on oil and grease residue on engines and chassis, take the Copo Star BMP-T. The Vorreiniger B is the all-round middle of the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/collections\/koch-chemie\"\u003eKoch-Chemie range\u003c\/a\u003e — phosphate-free, double VDA-compliant, fast-separating to ÖNORM 5106 and therefore also approved for biological process-water treatment systems.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAnd that last point is the real Detailing1 insight. Workshops with an oil separator have a chronic problem with alkaline pre-cleaners. Many products form stable emulsions that overload the separator or tip the wastewater limits.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Vorreiniger B is tested as fast-separating to ÖNORM 5106. The emulsion breaks down again in the separator within the standard conditions, and oil and water split cleanly. If you work in a commercial setting and have to keep an eye on your wastewater requirements, the Koch Chemie Vorreiniger B gives you an alkaline chemistry that won't become a problem at the plant — a detail neither the product page nor competitor copy bothers to mention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/d1_koch-chemie-vorreiniger-b-vb-vorreiniger_lineup.jpg?v=1776198373\" alt=\"Koch-Chemie Vorreiniger B Vb full range from 1 litre to 225 kg\" loading=\"lazy\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;display:block;margin:1.5em 0;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n","brand":"Koch-Chemie","offers":[{"title":"1000ml","offer_id":49515037360463,"sku":"D1-KCX-283001","price":6.29,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1000 mL","offer_id":49725492592975,"sku":"D1-KCX-283001_2","price":12.58,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 1000 mL","offer_id":49725492625743,"sku":"D1-KCX-283001_3","price":18.87,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5kg","offer_id":48762940162383,"sku":"D1-KCX-283005","price":20.69,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"11kg","offer_id":48762938851663,"sku":"D1-KCX-283011","price":45.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"22kg","offer_id":49603231646031,"sku":"D1-KCX-283022","price":86.39,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"225kg","offer_id":49603231678799,"sku":"D1-KCX-283225","price":875.69,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/koch-chemie-vorreiniger-b-vb-vorreiniger.png?v=1727529718"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-multiclean-alkaline-vorreiniger","title":"PROFILINE MultiClean \"Alkaline\" Pre-Cleaner","description":"\u003ch2\u003eBreak heavy traffic film chemically — with the SONAX PROFILINE MultiClean Alkaline\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat can the SONAX PROFILINE MultiClean Alkaline do? The high-alkaline pre-cleaner pulls bug splatter, heavy brake-dust deposits and organic road grime off the surface during the touchless pre-wash step — before the main wash even starts.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eProper car care doesn't start with shampoo. If you want a genuinely clean wash, you set up first — with a pre-cleaner that breaks the worst of the dirt chemically, before any sponge or wash mitt ever touches the paint. That's exactly the thinking behind the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiClean Alkaline\u003c\/strong\u003e: a high-alkaline pre-cleaner that loosens bug splatter, organic road film, tar particles and heavy brake-dust deposits in the pre-wash, so the contact-wash risk to your paint drops noticeably during the shampoo pass that follows. It's built for pros and for keen hobby detailers who take their wash routine seriously.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHigh-alkaline formula for maximum dirt break-down in the pre-wash step.\u003c\/strong\u003e The MultiClean Alkaline runs at a strongly alkaline pH that attacks organic grime — bugs, pollen, bird droppings, road film and greasy deposits — on a chemical level and weakens its grip on the surface. The dirt then rinses off touchless with the pressure washer or in the shampoo pass, instead of getting dragged across the paint while you wash and risking fine scratches.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePre-wash as paint protection — not just a convenience step.\u003c\/strong\u003e Every dirt particle still sitting on the surface when you start the contact wash acts like an abrasive. The pre-cleaner in the first step cuts the amount of grime on the surface before mitt or sponge come into play — that's not optional luxury, it's real long-term paint protection, especially on dark cars where micro-scratches show up the most.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFlexible dosing — for different soiling levels and application methods.\u003c\/strong\u003e The MultiClean Alkaline comes in 1-litre and 5-litre containers and can be run at different strengths depending on how dirty the car is and how you apply it (foam cannon, spray bottle, pump sprayer). Light soiling needs a stronger dilution; on cars back from long motorway runs or in the summer bug season, you crank the concentration up.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Always lay the MultiClean Alkaline down on a dry, cool car — not in full sun and not on pre-wetted paint, since water thins out the working concentration. Let the cleaner dwell for 2–5 minutes without letting it dry on — in hot weather or direct sun, shorten the dwell time and keep the car damp. Then rinse thoroughly with the pressure washer before you go into the shampoo pass. For maximum bug removal, run the cleaner stronger across the front end (grille, bumper) and, if needed, work it briefly with a soft brush before you rinse.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAlkaline car pre-cleaner — how the MultiClean Alkaline works chemically\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMost of the organic dirt on a car — bug splatter, pollen, bird droppings, the fatty salts off road wear, oil film — is stable in the acidic-to-neutral pH range. A high-alkaline cleaner like the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiClean Alkaline\u003c\/strong\u003e shifts the chemical balance: esters and fatty compounds in organic grime are split apart by saponification under alkaline conditions, protein structures in bug residue are denatured and dissolved. The result isn't a mechanical lift-off but a chemical destabilisation of the dirt — the bond to the paint is weakened without you having to work the surface mechanically.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOne thing to get right: high-alkaline pre-cleaners aren't \"do-it-all\" cleaners for every situation. They're tuned for organic, alkali-soluble grime. Mineral deposits like lime spots, water spots or embedded metal rust (brake dust as iron particles) barely react to an alkaline attack — that calls for acidic specialist cleaners. The MultiClean Alkaline makes sense in a two-wash concept: alkaline pre-wash first (organic grime), then a follow-up with an iron remover or acidic cleaner (mineral deposits). Combine both steps and you clean chemically all the way, instead of just looking clean.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAlso important: alkaline pre-cleaners have to be rinsed off completely before you go into the shampoo wash — residue can react with some sealants or wax layers and knock back their bond for a while. A thorough pressure rinse after the dwell time is enough to clear the cleaner off fully. On freshly sealed cars (ceramic coating, paint sealant), only use it on genuinely heavily soiled spots and keep it out of the regular weekly wash, so you don't put unnecessary strain on the protection. For the routine wash of a sealed car, reach for a mild, pH-neutral shampoo as your standard wash product instead.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing a pre-wash like a pro — the application step by step\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe best way to use the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiClean Alkaline\u003c\/strong\u003e starts on a dry car. Moisture on the paint thins the cleaner straight away and cuts the working concentration before it ever had a chance to act. Recommended method: fill the cleaner neat or at a low dilution ratio (1:3 to 1:10 depending on how dirty it is) into a pump sprayer, a \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-foamsprayer-schaumspruher\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FoamSprayer\u003c\/a\u003e or a foam cannon on the pressure washer, and spray it evenly across the whole car — bottom to top, so the cleaner runs down the bodywork and the lower, dirtier areas get properly wetted too.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eStick to the dwell time: 2–5 minutes is enough for typical road grime. Don't let it dry on — in direct sun or high temperatures, mist the car lightly in between or shorten the dwell time accordingly. After the dwell, rinse thoroughly with the pressure washer, then move into the normal shampoo wash. Alternatively, the MultiClean Alkaline can be run as a foam cleaner in the foam cannon — foam clings to the surface longer and stretches the effective dwell time with no extra effort. For really stubborn bug splatter on the front end, it pays to work a soft bug sponge or microfibre mitt over it after the pre-wash before you rinse — even that is already a lot gentler than going straight into a contact wash with no chemical pre-wash first.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBug remover for pros — when the alkaline pre-cleaner really shines\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe MultiClean Alkaline shows its strengths above all in the summer season, when bugs turn into a real cleaning problem. Bug residue is made of proteins, acids (formic acid, acetic acid) and fatty substances — a chemically complex mix that \"bakes\" into the paint the moment it sits for more than a few hours. Those acids in particular can damage paint if bugs aren't removed promptly in hot weather. The high-alkaline formula neutralises those acids and breaks down the protein structures at the same time — which makes the pre-cleaner an effective tool against bugs that cuts the mechanical load during the wash down to a minimum.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA simple rule of thumb applies: the fresher the bug residue, the less dwell time the cleaner needs. Fresh splatter dissolves almost completely within 2–3 minutes of dwell time and then rinses off touchless. With older, dried-on residue — what you see day-to-day on cars left unwashed for several days after a motorway run — a second pass or a quick mechanical follow-up with a soft bug sponge may be needed. That's not a weakness of the cleaner, it's chemical reality: proteins that have been \"baked\" by heat and UV over days need more time or mechanical help to dissolve fully.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBeyond the car body, it's especially worthwhile on motorhomes, vans and commercial vehicles: thanks to their size and mileage, these often carry many times the dirt load of a normal car, and the option of a touchless pre-wash saves a lot of time and effort here. Professional detailing operations run the pre-cleaner as a fixed part of their wash routine — as the first step, before pressure or foam come in. That doesn't just lift cleaning quality, it also stretches the lifespan of the wash pads and mitts, because they meet far less coarse grime.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePre-cleaners compared — MultiClean Alkaline vs. MultiStar and MultiClean Acid\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE range has three cleaners that look similar at first glance but are built for different jobs. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-multistar-all-purpose-cleaner-universalreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiStar All-Purpose-Cleaner\u003c\/a\u003e is the most versatile of the three: a concentrated all-rounder that, depending on dilution, works for interior, wheels, exterior surfaces and more. It's alkaline, but less strong than the MultiClean Alkaline, so it's broader in use and kinder to sensitive surfaces.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiClean Alkaline\u003c\/strong\u003e, by contrast, is tuned for maximum alkaline cleaning power in the pre-wash — it's not meant for sensitive interior materials, but for tough paint surfaces, sills, wheel arches and front ends. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-multiclean-acid-kraftreiniger-sauer\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiClean Acid\u003c\/a\u003e is its acidic counterpart: it handles mineral deposits like lime spots, water spots and embedded grime that alkaline cleaners can't shift. In pro work the two are often run as a system: alkaline first (MultiClean Alkaline), then acidic (MultiClean Acid or the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-flugrostentferner-kraftreiniger-sauer-eisenentferner\"\u003ePROFILINE FlugrostEntferner\u003c\/a\u003e) — that gives you a complete chemical clean across every type of dirt.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy the SONAX PROFILINE MultiClean Alkaline — sizes, concentration, uses\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe pre-cleaner is available at Detailing1 in two container sizes: 1 litre for hobby detailers and occasional users who want to experience the pro effect without laying in a big stock, plus 5 litres for regular users and detailing operations that keep the product in constant use. Both versions hold the same concentrate formula — the ideal dilution depends on the soiling level and the application method. In pro work with daily use, the 5-litre container clearly pays off, since the price per litre comes out lower and the bigger canister gives you enough volume for larger vehicles and fleets too.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWho gets the most out of this pre-cleaner? Professional detailers running a structured multi-step method (touchless pre-clean + foam wash + hand wash) who put paint safety first. Hobby detailers looking for an effective answer to stubborn traffic film after long runs or in bug season, without having to reach for aggressive chemistry. Owners of dark or sensitive paint, where wash marring shows up the most and the mechanical cleaning load should be kept to a minimum. And anyone who wants to dial in their wash process: pre-wash consistently and you spare the car, the wash gear, and your time in the long run.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs a practical workflow for your next wash: park the car in the shade, lay the MultiClean Alkaline down with a foam sprayer or foam cannon, let it dwell for 3–4 minutes, rinse thoroughly with pressure. Then apply a \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-actifoam-energy-reinigungsschaum\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE ActiFoam Energy\u003c\/a\u003e as a foam wash in the second step and let it dwell, before the hand wash with mitt and pH-neutral shampoo begins. This three-stage approach (alkaline pre-wash → foam → hand wash) is the standard at professional detailing operations and makes a visible difference to surface quality over time on cars in frequent use.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":53622519365967,"sku":"D1-SNX-6295000","price":32.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":57340506472783,"sku":"D1-SNX-6293000","price":9.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-multiclean-alkaline-vorreiniger_5-liter.png?v=1731053233"},{"product_id":"gyeon-q2m-iron-redefined-flugrostentferner","title":"Q²M Iron (REDEFINED) Iron Remover","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eDissolve invisible fallout chemically with GYEON Q²M Iron\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is GYEON Q²M Iron? A pH-neutral iron remover with a gel formula and colour indicator that chemically binds iron particles on paint, wheels and glass and makes them visible — without touching the surface mechanically. Not for tar, resin or organic grime.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGYEON Q²M Iron\u003c\/strong\u003e (Q2M Iron) is a reactive iron remover from GYEON that works through thioglycolic acid derivatives: the active ingredient binds iron(III) compounds on the surface and forms a water-soluble complex that rinses off completely. The colour change from clear to purple shows you in real time where iron contamination sits and how heavy it is. The gel clings to vertical paint and doesn't run off — at pH 6 it attacks neither clearcoat nor seals nor convertible roofs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/gyeon-q2m-iron-hero-forecourt.jpg?v=1776067908\" alt=\"GYEON Q²M Iron iron remover on a concrete wall in front of a black BMW M3 at golden hour\" loading=\"lazy\" width=\"1200\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe colour indicator makes contamination visible.\u003c\/strong\u003e The purple colour change shows you exactly where iron particles sit — even where the paint looks clean to the eye. On an average car that's been on the road for 3 months, Q²M Iron reacts all over. That's not a fault, it's the normal state: brake dust, rail fallout and industrial emissions leave microscopic iron particles on every car.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003epH 6 and a gel formula for longer contact time.\u003c\/strong\u003e Most iron removers are thin and run straight off vertical panels. Q²M Iron stays put as a gel on the surface, which stretches the effective contact time. The near-neutral pH of 6 makes it safe for clearcoat, ceramic coatings, wheels of every type and glass — as long as you keep the dwell time to 2 minutes max.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eA must-do step before polishing and coating.\u003c\/strong\u003e Iron particles sit in the clearcoat, not on the clearcoat. Polishing only shifts them around, it doesn't pull them out. Q²M Iron dissolves the particles chemically out of the paint surface before you polish or lay down a coating. Skip this step and you seal the contamination under the coating — with the risk of long-term clearcoat damage.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e GYEON quotes a maximum dwell time of 2 minutes — much shorter than a lot of competitors. Stick to it. The active ingredient hits its saturation point after 2 minutes: leaving it on longer adds no cleaning power, but it does raise the risk of residue on the surface. With heavy contamination, a second pass always beats a longer dwell on the first. Always apply it to washed, wet paint — never on dry or hot surfaces, never in direct sun.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSpray on. 2 minutes. Rinse off.\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGYEON Q²M Iron goes onto wet paint after the pre-wash and reacts visibly with the iron particles on the surface within 30–60 seconds. You'll need about 150 ml per car with medium contamination — that's three to four full car cleans from the 500 ml bottle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWork top to bottom: roof, bonnet, sides, then bumpers and sills. The lower areas are more contaminated because they catch the brake dust off the front axle head-on. Once the colour shift to purple kicks in, the reaction has started. After 2 minutes max, rinse off with a strong jet of water — don't wait any longer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the gaps between wheel spokes and hard-to-reach spots on the sill you can spread the product with a soft brush. Don't scrub — just spread it. The chemical reaction does the work. On new cars delivered by rail, count on two passes: the iron contamination from rail fallout is far heavier than from normal road use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne detail GYEON doesn't spell out: Q²M Iron must not be diluted with water. The reason is simple — tap water holds trace amounts of iron, and the active ingredient would react with those traces straight away instead of working on the paint surface. That's also why the advice is to work on wet paint: the water already on the panel doesn't dilute the product, it helps you spread it evenly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/gyeon-q2m-iron-anwendung-farbumschlag.jpg?v=1776067914\" alt=\"GYEON Q²M Iron in use with a purple colour change on black paint\" loading=\"lazy\" width=\"1200\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eQ²M Iron dissolves fallout. Not tar.\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eQ²M Iron reacts only with iron compounds — brake dust, rail fallout, industrial emissions. Organic grime like tar, tree sap, bug splatter or bird droppings shows no colour change and won't dissolve. That's not a shortcoming, it's chemistry: thioglycolic acid binds iron, not carbon.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe colour change is more than an optical effect here — it's a diagnostic tool. Heavy purple means high iron contamination. If a spot stays clear, there's no fallout there but possibly tar or organic dirt. That tells you how to pick your next cleaning step: where Q²M Iron doesn't react, you need a solvent-based \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/gyeon-q2m-tar-redefined-harzentferner-teerentferner\"\u003etar remover\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSo for a full chemical decontamination you need two products: Q²M Iron for the inorganic contamination (iron) and a tar remover for the organic kind (tar, resin, adhesive residue). The order doesn't really matter — both products work on different types of grime and don't interfere with each other. After that comes the mechanical decontamination with a \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/gyeon-q2m-claylube-redefined-gleitmittel-reinigungsknete\"\u003eclay bar\u003c\/a\u003e for anything the chemistry didn't lift.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhere Q²M Iron hits its limits: on cars that have sat in road use for more than 6 months without decontamination, the iron particles have worked so deep into the clearcoat that even two passes won't lift it all. In that case a follow-up polish helps to mechanically take down the remaining inclusions.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eQ²M Iron pulls out the free and near-surface particles — the deeply embedded ones are a job for the machine polisher. It's also not the first pick against baked-on brake dust on wheels that's eaten in over months: there the more concentrated Iron WheelCleaner does the job, while Q²M Iron is built for the whole car.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/gyeon-q2m-iron-ergebnis-violette-reaktion.jpg?v=1776067919\" alt=\"GYEON Q²M Iron purple colour change on a paint surface, close-up\" loading=\"lazy\" width=\"1200\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBefore every polish. No exceptions.\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eQ²M Iron belongs in every detailing workflow between the wash and the polish — whether it's a full detail or a thorough weekend session in the garage at home. The full decontamination sequence: wash, chemical decontamination (Iron + Tar), mechanical decontamination (clay), then and only then polish and coating. Skip this step and you polish iron particles into the clearcoat instead of removing them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe reason is physical: iron particles are harder than clearcoat. When you run a machine polisher over contaminated paint, the pad drives the particles deeper into the material instead of taking them off. It looks good at first because the polish smooths the paint around the particles. But under the new surface the iron inclusions are still there — and they keep oxidising for weeks. So Q²M Iron before the polish isn't a suggestion, it's damage prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eQ²M Iron also earns its place in the regular care between full details: laid down on washed paint every 2–3 months, it stops iron particles building up and keeps the paint surface decontaminated. That matters most on cars with a ceramic coating: the coating layer protects the clearcoat, but iron particles settle on the coating too and can attack it over time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the Iron treatment it's worth topping up the coating — either wet with a wet-coat sealant or dry with a spray coating. That's the full care workflow in under 20 minutes: wash, Iron, rinse, seal. A typical sulphur smell during use is normal and shows the active ingredient reacting with the iron oxides — it clears completely once you rinse off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe three sizes cover different scenarios: 500 ml for 3–4 cars during regular washing, 1 litre as the standard size for the keen home user, 4 litres for detailers and busy operations running several cars a week.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAt about €6 per use (500 ml bottle, ~150 ml per car), Q²M Iron isn't a luxury product — it's standard kit for anyone who wants to keep their paint healthy long term. To bring the price per litre down, grab the 4-litre size: €102 for 4,000 ml works out at €25.50 per litre against €36 for the 500 ml bottle. To get started with \u003ca href=\"\/en\/collections\/reiniger\"\u003edecontamination\u003c\/a\u003e, the 500 ml bottle is the right test — three uses are enough to see and feel the difference on the paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/gyeon-q2m-iron-lineup-alle-groessen.jpg?v=1776067925\" alt=\"GYEON Q²M Iron all sizes 500ml 1000ml 4000ml on a forecourt\" loading=\"lazy\" width=\"1200\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n","brand":"GYEON","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":56981805629775,"sku":"D1-GYEON-Q2MIRON1000","price":32.0,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"500ml","offer_id":56981805662543,"sku":"D1-GYEON-Q2MIRON500","price":18.0,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"4 liters","offer_id":56981805695311,"sku":"D1-GYEON-Q2MIRON4000","price":102.0,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/gyeon-q2m-iron-redefined-flugrostentferner.png?v=1770844977"},{"product_id":"gyeon-q2m-bug-and-grime-insektenentferner","title":"Q²M Bug\u0026Grime Bug Remover","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eDissolve bug residue chemically before the wash with the GYEON Q2M Bug Grime\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is the GYEON Q2M Bug Grime? An alkaline pre-wash cleaner from GYEON (pH 11) that chemically softens dried-on bug residue and road grime films on paint, glass and plastic – without any mechanical scrubbing. Not suitable for bug etching that has already eaten into the clear coat.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGYEON Q2M Bug Grime\u003c\/strong\u003e is an alkaline bug remover from GYEON that works through a mix of surfactants and mild organic solvents. The pH of 11 breaks down the protein structure of dried bug residue and lifts the grime film off the surface – without you having to drag a sponge across the paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat dragging is exactly what causes the micro-scratches that often do more damage after a summer drive than the bugs themselves. Bug\u0026amp;Grime turns a risky job into a purely chemical process: spray on, wait 3 minutes, rinse off. The result is a clean front end without a single new scratch in the clear coat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/hero-bug-grime.jpg?v=1776026159\" alt=\"GYEON Q2M Bug Grime 500ml bottle on exposed concrete in front of a Porsche\" loading=\"lazy\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe alkaline formula dissolves bug proteins chemically.\u003c\/strong\u003e Bug residue is made up of proteins, lipids and natural acids like uric acid and succinic acid. At pH 11 these compounds get hydrolysed – the residue loses its grip on the paint and rinses off contact-free. Unlike acidic cleaners, the alkaline formula doesn't attack the clear coat.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCoating-safe when used correctly.\u003c\/strong\u003e The GYEON Q2M Bug Grime bug remover won't attack ceramic coatings, polymer sealants or carnauba waxes, as long as you stick to the 3-minute maximum dwell time. Used too often on the same spot, the hydrophobic effect can dip temporarily – after 1–2 normal washes it comes back.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e80–150 ml per car. A 500 ml bottle covers 3–6 jobs.\u003c\/strong\u003e For the whole front (bonnet, bumpers, windscreen, mirrors) reckon on about 80 ml with light contamination and up to 150 ml after a long motorway run. At 13 EUR for 500 ml that works out at 2.10–4.30 EUR per job – cheaper than a single scratch correction with a polisher.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Always spray Bug\u0026amp;Grime onto cool, dry surfaces – never onto warm paint and never in direct sun. Heat makes the product flash off too fast and leaves alkaline residue that's a pain to get off. If you want to clean straight after a long drive: cool the bonnet and bumpers down first with a quick blast of water, then spray. Let it dwell for 3 minutes max. A second pass always beats a longer dwell on the first one.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSpray on. 3 minutes. Rinse off.\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGYEON Q2M Bug Grime goes on before the actual wash as a pre-wash. It chemically softens bug residue and road film so you don't need any mechanical pressure during the wash itself – that cuts the scratch risk during contact washing right down.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSpray the product evenly onto the dry, cool surface – the front end, bumpers, windscreen, mirrors and A-pillars are the usual bug zones. Work from the bottom up so the product doesn't run off too fast and the dwell time stays even.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter 2–3 minutes, rinse top to bottom with a pressure washer or a strong jet of water. The softened bug residue flows away with the water, no need to touch the surface. Then carry on washing as normal with \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/gyeon-q2m-bathe-autoshampoo\"\u003ecar shampoo\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTiming matters: don't let it dwell longer than 3 minutes. The surfactants in Bug\u0026amp;Grime are saturated after that – a longer dwell adds no cleaning power but does raise the risk of residue on the surface. That's especially true in summer above 25 °C, when the product dries faster.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWith stubborn bug residue that's been baked on for days, a single pass won't lift everything. Lay down a second pass and gently agitate with a soft detailing brush. The brush spreads the product and brings fresh surfactants onto the dirt – more effective than a longer dwell.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor spot treatment on the road, Bug\u0026amp;Grime works fine without a pressure washer too: spray straight onto the spot, let it dwell 2–3 minutes and lift it off gently with a damp microfibre, dabbing rather than wiping. Don't wipe over the bug residue – dab the softened material off, that way you avoid scratches even without a water supply.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne more detail for glass: Bug\u0026amp;Grime works just as safely on windscreens as on paint. Bugs on the windscreen are often more of a nuisance than on the bonnet, because they block your view and the wipers just smear the residue around. Spray Bug\u0026amp;Grime onto the dry glass, let it dwell and rinse off – after that the wiper clears streak-free again.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/anwendung-bug-grime.jpg?v=1776026163\" alt=\"GYEON Q2M Bug Grime being sprayed onto a bug-covered vehicle front end\" loading=\"lazy\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eIt dissolves bugs. Not bug etching.\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBug\u0026amp;Grime reliably removes fresh and dried-on bug residue from the paint surface – that's its core job. On top of that, the cleaner lifts road grime films, light tar spots and the typical summer film of pollen and dust off bonnets and windscreens.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFirst limit: bug etching in the clear coat. When bug residue sits on the paint in the sun for days, the acids in it chemically etch the clear coat. These etch marks are physical damage to the paint surface – no cleaner can remove them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor that you need a paint polish to take down the damaged clear coat layer and expose a fresh one. Bug\u0026amp;Grime prevents etching like this by removing the bug residue in time. If you clean within 24 hours of every motorway run, you generally won't find any etch marks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eLeave it a week and you have to expect paint damage – especially on dark cars, which heat up more in the sun. Dark paint soaks up more heat, the bug acids react faster, and the etching goes deeper. Here, acting fast is the best paint protection there is – a 500 ml bottle in the boot costs 13 EUR and can save you polishing costs of 200 EUR and up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSecond limit: tar and tree sap. Bug\u0026amp;Grime is formulated for protein-based grime (bugs, bird droppings, biofilm). Hydrocarbon contamination like tar, bitumen and tree sap doesn't react to alkaline surfactants – for that, \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/gyeon-q2m-tar-redefined-harzentferner-teerentferner\"\u003eQ²M Tar\u003c\/a\u003e is the right product. For a full summer decontamination: Bug\u0026amp;Grime first for the front, then Tar for sills and wheel arches.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/ergebnis-bug-grime.jpg?v=1776026166\" alt=\"Before-and-after comparison of a bug-covered bonnet after Bug Grime treatment\" loading=\"lazy\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eYour first step in the summer wash workflow\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGYEON Q2M Bug Grime makes sense for anyone who covers long distances regularly between March and October and doesn't want bug build-up drying on the front end. As a pre-wash before every summer wash, the bug remover cuts the scratch risk noticeably. Especially relevant for cars with a ceramic coating or fresh polish, where every micro-scratch shows.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the Detailing1 wash workflow, Bug\u0026amp;Grime sits right at the start: Bug\u0026amp;Grime on the front → \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/gyeon-q2m-foam-schaumreiniger\"\u003eQ²M Foam\u003c\/a\u003e as a pre-foam over the whole car → main wash with Q²M Bathe or Q²M Bathe+ → optionally Q²M WetCoat as a wet sealant. Four steps, under 30 minutes, and the front is clean without a single scratch.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBug\u0026amp;Grime takes on the hardest part of the workflow: dissolving the protein-bound grime that the foam cleaner can't handle on its own. Foam softens surface dust and road grime, but dried bug proteins need the higher pH of a dedicated bug remover. The difference is measurable: after a pre-wash with Bug\u0026amp;Grime the wash mitt glides over the front end with no resistance during contact washing – without Bug\u0026amp;Grime you feel every dried bug as drag under the mitt.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhere Bug\u0026amp;Grime is less suited is as a replacement for a full pre-cleaner. If you want to clear road grime off the whole car, you're better off reaching for Q²M Foam as a pre-foam – it covers every surface and lifts general dirt more efficiently than a bug remover. Bug\u0026amp;Grime stays the specialist tool for the front and any spots with bug contamination.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you only remove bugs now and then and don't need a regular workflow: the 500 ml spray bottle fits in any driver's door and is ready to go as a spot treatment. Spray it on the front right after the motorway, let it dwell, rinse it off at the next self-service bay.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt's the simplest insurance against bug etching in summer. For year-round use or several cars, the 4-litre canister is worth it: same formula, lower price per litre at 15.50 EUR per litre instead of 26 EUR with the 500 ml bottle. The best option for topping up the spray bottle in the boot.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/lineup-bug-grime.jpg?v=1776026170\" alt=\"GYEON Q2M Bug Grime all sizes 500ml 1L 4L side by side on exposed concrete\" loading=\"lazy\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n","brand":"GYEON","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":57019440038223,"sku":"D1-GYEON-Q2MBG1000","price":21.0,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"500ml","offer_id":57019440070991,"sku":"D1-GYEON-Q2MBG500","price":13.0,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"4 liters","offer_id":57019440103759,"sku":"D1-GYEON-Q2MBG4000","price":62.0,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/gyeon-q2m-bug-and-grime-insektenentferner.png?v=1770931757"},{"product_id":"gyeon-q2m-waterspot-kalkfleckenentferner","title":"Q²M WaterSpot Limescale Remover","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eStrip limescale spots chemically without polishing, using GYEON Q²M WaterSpot\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is GYEON Q²M WaterSpot? An acidic water-spot remover on a phosphoric-acid base that dissolves limescale and mineral deposits on paint and glass in under 30 seconds — approved for silica ceramic coatings. Not for waxes, polymer sealants or freshly applied coatings still in their curing phase.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGYEON Q²M WaterSpot\u003c\/strong\u003e is an acidic water-spot remover from GYEON built around a mild phosphoric-acid formula: the solution reacts chemically with the calcium and magnesium carbonates left behind by dried-on hard water and rain, turning them into water-soluble salts you can wipe off cleanly with a microfibre cloth. The product pH sits at around 2 and it's formulated with lubricating-oil carriers that keep marring off the paint while you work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat approach is what fundamentally sets the Q²M WaterSpot apart from a mechanical polish. Limescale comes off purely chemically — no paint removal, no holograms and no risk to thin clear-coat layers. That matters most on OEM paint, where the clear coat is often only 40 to 60 µm thick and every polishing pass means measurable material loss. The oil component isn't an accident, it's a protective feature: it wraps around the dissolved mineral particles and stops the acid solution from leaving micro-scratches of its own as you wipe.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/d1_gyeon-q2m-waterspot-kalkfleckenentferner_hero.jpg?v=1776548035\" alt=\"GYEON Q²M WaterSpot spray bottle in front of a vehicle with limescale spots on the paint\" loading=\"lazy\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eAcidic phosphoric-acid action on paint and glass.\u003c\/strong\u003e The product pH of around 2 dissolves calcium carbonate chemically within 30 seconds. On fresh rain-spot residue a single pass is enough; on limescale that's dried on over two to three weeks you go straight in with a second pass on the still-wet surface — that's far more effective than stretching out the dwell time on the first hit.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLubricating-oil carrier as scratch protection while you work.\u003c\/strong\u003e The oily feel of the spray isn't a side effect, it's part of the formula. The mix wraps dissolved mineral particles in an oil film so they don't act like abrasive grit when you pull the product off with the microfibre cloth. About 15 ml per paint panel is enough — at 15 EUR for 500 ml that works out to roughly 0.50 EUR per panel, and the 1-litre bottle pushes the cost down to about 0.37 EUR per panel.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eApproved for ceramic coatings, risky for waxes.\u003c\/strong\u003e Q²M WaterSpot is approved for silica-based ceramic coatings (e.g. GYEON Q² MOHS EVO, Q² One EVO) once fully cured. Waxes and polymer sealants, on the other hand, get reliably stripped and have to be reapplied afterwards. That makes the product a tool for coating owners and the wrong call for the classic wax fan.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e The most common mistake is using it on warm paint or paint in the sun. The lubricating-oil component flashes off in seconds and you end up wiping oily streaks instead of dissolved limescale. Always work in the shade, with paint below 25 °C, and never let the product sit longer than 30 seconds. After you pull it off, follow up with an alcohol-based degreaser or a pH-neutral wash to clear the oil residue — otherwise you've just built yourself a dirt-magnet surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCold paint. 30 seconds. No longer.\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn warm paint or in direct sun the lubricating-oil component flashes off in seconds and you wipe oily streaks instead of dissolved limescale. The Q²M WaterSpot needs a washed, dried and cool surface — then the acid reaction kicks off evenly. Spray straight onto the limescale spots from about 15 to 20 centimetres away, one to two sprays per panel (around 15 ml).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eMaximum dwell time is 30 seconds, not a second more. Then pull it off in one direction with a soft, clean microfibre cloth. A common mistake day-to-day is the idea that a longer dwell time would dissolve stubborn spots better. The opposite is true: past 45 seconds the phosphoric-acid solution starts to dry on, and the lubricating-oil component no longer lifts off evenly with it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor stubborn or slightly dried-on water spots you work in two passes: pull off the first application after 30 seconds, then immediately spray a second layer onto the same spot and pull that off after 30 seconds too. The second pass lands on a surface that's already been chemically primed and lifts the residue the first pass didn't catch.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTo finish, rinse the treated area with clean water or wipe it down with a second microfibre cloth and a little shampoo water. This after-clean isn't optional — it's a fixed part of the workflow: Q²M WaterSpot leaves a thin oil film that attracts dust and pollen until it's washed off. For bigger jobs across several panels it pays to go straight into a full wash from our \u003ca href=\"\/en\/collections\/vorreiniger\"\u003epre-wash\u003c\/a\u003e category; for spot-treating, a damp second wipe does the job.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/d1_gyeon-q2m-waterspot-kalkfleckenentferner_anwendung.jpg?v=1776548038\" alt=\"GYEON Q²M WaterSpot applied to cool paint with a microfibre cloth\" loading=\"lazy\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePhosphoric acid dissolves limescale. Waxes too, unfortunately.\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you look after your car with carnauba wax or spray wax, every WaterSpot pass costs you your own protective layer — the acidic pH of around 2 attacks any organic sealant along with it. On evaporated hard water and rain, though, the product works reliably: calcium and magnesium carbonates get converted chemically into water-soluble salts that wipe off the paint in a single pull.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat's the real dividing line for the buying decision. Silica-based GYEON ceramic coatings are chemically stable enough to take 30 seconds of contact with phosphoric acid at pH 2 unharmed — one of the upsides you installed the coating for in the first place. Carnauba wax layers, synthetic sealants and hybrid wax-coatings can't handle that load and get partly or fully stripped.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe result isn't paint damage, but a rebuild of the protective layer. If you look after your car every three months with a spray wax, every WaterSpot pass means: water spots gone, wax layer gone, wax back on. On active ceramic coatings that step drops out, because the coating stays put.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe clear limits: limescale that's baked in after months of neglect often can't be fully dissolved chemically any more — by then calcium has worked its way into the clear coat and only a light finishing polish takes out the rest. On glass the WaterSpot counts as safe, but for hardened water spots on the windscreen a dedicated \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/gyeon-q2m-glass-plus-glasreiniger-versiegelung\"\u003eglass cleaner with sealant\u003c\/a\u003e or a glass polish is the cleaner tool. If you need maximum cleaning power and coating compatibility doesn't matter, the more aggressive \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-waterspot-remover-wasserfleckenentferner-kalkentferner\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Waterspot Remover\u003c\/a\u003e is the clearer pick.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/d1_gyeon-q2m-waterspot-kalkfleckenentferner_ergebnis.jpg?v=1776548039\" alt=\"GYEON Q²M WaterSpot result, spot-free paint after limescale removal\" loading=\"lazy\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFor coating owners in hard-water regions.\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn hard-water regions, limescale rings eat into your coating in a matter of weeks — and the longer you wait, the deeper they settle into the clear coat. The south, Franconia and big parts of Saxony-Anhalt with water hardness above 14 °dH throw up these marks in particular: the hydrophobic layer beads the water but doesn't always let it run off completely, and the leftover water dries in at the lowest point of a droplet. The Q²M WaterSpot is the routine that stops these marks before they're polish-only.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe product also makes sense for anyone who lets their car dry outside after a wash for lack of a garage. When the leftover water evaporates in the sun, you're left with the characteristic water spots that shampoo won't lift any more. This is where the WaterSpot gives you the chemical fix you'd otherwise have to reach for polishing paste to get.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe WaterSpot is less suited to care routines built around carnauba wax, spray waxes or hybrid sealants as the primary protective layer. In that setup every pass dissolves your own protective layer along with the spots — the opposite of what you use a wax for. For those owners a clay bar is the better choice. The product is also unsuitable on freshly applied coatings: before the 7-day curing phase is up, the coating can be partly damaged.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn bottle size: the 500 ml bottle covers around 30 jobs with spot use — the right start for private ceramic owners with one or two cars. The 1-litre bottle pays off from the second car or with commercial detailing. Store frost-free between 5 and 30 °C; good for 24 months once opened.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe strongest lever from day-to-day at Detailing1 is the order of operations — and that's exactly what most people get wrong. Don't use the Q²M WaterSpot at the \u003cstrong\u003eend\u003c\/strong\u003e of a wash, use it right before: hit the limescale spots first, then run the full wash with \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/gyeon-q2m-prep-entfetter-alkoholbasis\"\u003eGYEON Q²M Prep\u003c\/a\u003e or a pH-neutral shampoo. The wash water flushes out the phosphoric acid's lubricating-oil residue in one go — you skip the degreaser pass and your coating only takes one round of friction instead of two. No manufacturer data sheet mentions this.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/d1_gyeon-q2m-waterspot-kalkfleckenentferner_lineup.jpg?v=1776548043\" alt=\"GYEON Q²M WaterSpot 500 ml and 1000 ml bottles side by side\" loading=\"lazy\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n","brand":"GYEON","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":57019504886095,"sku":"D1-GYEON-Q2MWS1000","price":22.0,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"500ml","offer_id":57019504918863,"sku":"D1-GYEON-Q2MWS500","price":15.0,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/gyeon-q2m-waterspot-kalkfleckenentferner.png?v=1770931725"},{"product_id":"gyeon-q2m-claylube-redefined-gleitmittel-reinigungsknete","title":"Q²M ClayLube (REDEFINED) Clay Bar Lubricant","description":"\u003ch2\u003eHow to properly use detailing clay – GYEON Q²M ClayLube\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is GYEON Q²M ClayLube? GYEON Q²M ClayLube is a special lubricant for applying paint clay (Clay Bar) – it creates a sufficient lubricating film between the clay and the paint surface, prevents clay residue, and protects the paint from scratches during the claying process.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePaint clay is one of the most effective tools for decontaminating vehicle paint – it mechanically removes industrial fallout, tar particles, brake dust, and other contaminants that chemical cleaners cannot completely dissolve. But using clay on paint without a suitable lubricant is dangerous: The clay sticks to the paint, drags dirt particles along, and creates scratches. \u003cstrong\u003eGYEON Q²M ClayLube\u003c\/strong\u003e prevents precisely this problem – as a specially formulated lubricant that provides an optimal lubricating film for safe and effective clay application.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOptimal lubricating film prevents scratches during the claying process.\u003c\/strong\u003e Q²M ClayLube forms an even lubricating film on the paint surface, allowing the clay to glide smoothly without stuttering or sticking. This prevents trapped dirt particles from leaving scratches in the clear coat during claying.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLeaves no annoying residue on the paint surface.\u003c\/strong\u003e Some lubricants leave oil or wax residues that can negatively affect subsequent sealants. Q²M ClayLube is free of such residues – after rinsing, the surface is clean and ready for polishing or coating.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSaves lubricant through efficient lubrication – economical in consumption.\u003c\/strong\u003e Q²M ClayLube is highly efficiently formulated: even small amounts are sufficient for a generous lubricating film. This saves product and makes the claying process economical even on large areas.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1 Pro Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e Spray Q²M ClayLube generously onto a small area (approx. 30x30 cm), then work with the clay in straight, overlapping motions – never circular movements. If the clay stutters or drags, spray more ClayLube. After claying, rinse with water or dab with a clean microfiber towel. The surface is then optimally prepared for paint polishing with \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/gyeon-q2m-compound-plus-redefined-heavy-cut-lackpolitur\"\u003eQ²M Compound+\u003c\/a\u003e or coating application.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePaint Clay and ClayLube: Why the lubricant is so crucial\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePaint clay works on the principle of mechanical adhesion: the clay mass adheres to dirt particles on the paint surface and pulls them out – a physical process that penetrates significantly deeper into the surface film than chemical cleaners. However, this process requires a lubricating film between the clay and the paint to avoid scratches. An unsuitable lubricant (e.g., normal all-purpose cleaner) can absorb the clay mass too quickly, leave soap residues, or distribute the lubricating film unevenly. Q²M ClayLube is formulated for precisely this application: maximum lubricating effect, minimal residues, optimal claying temperature.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhen should paint clay with Q²M ClayLube be used?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe rule of thumb: After every complete vehicle detailing (1–2 times annually) and whenever the paint feels rough (the \"sandwich bag test\" – rough = contaminated). Typical indications are: after winter (road salt, brake dust), after stays near industrial plants (industrial fallout), before preparation or coating application. The order in the preparation workflow: Washing with \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/gyeon-q2m-bathe-autoshampoo\"\u003eQ²M Bathe\u003c\/a\u003e → chemical decontamination (\u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/gyeon-q2m-iron-redefined-flugrostentferner\"\u003eQ²M Iron\u003c\/a\u003e, \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/gyeon-q2m-tar-redefined-harzentferner-teerentferner\"\u003eQ²M Tar\u003c\/a\u003e) → Claying with Q²M ClayLube → Paint polishing → Degreasing with \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/gyeon-q2m-prep-entfetter-alkoholbasis\"\u003eQ²M Prep\u003c\/a\u003e → Coating.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eClaylube as an alternative: Can I use normal shampoo?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTechnically yes – but not recommended. Normal car shampoo can serve as a makeshift solution but has several disadvantages compared to Q²M ClayLube: It dries faster (less working time), does not form as uniform a lubricating film, and often leaves more residue. Q²M ClayLube is optimized for specific use with paint clay and delivers consistently better results – fewer scratches, cleaner surface, more pleasant work process. The investment in a good lubricant is more than justified given the risk of scratches from improper claying.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eQ²M ClayLube in the complete decontamination workflow\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn professional detailing, Q²M ClayLube is an integral part of the decontamination step. After chemical decontamination (industrial fallout with \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/gyeon-q2m-iron-redefined-flugrostentferner\"\u003eQ²M Iron\u003c\/a\u003e, tar with \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/gyeon-q2m-tar-redefined-harzentferner-teerentferner\"\u003eQ²M Tar\u003c\/a\u003e), the clay with ClayLube mechanically removes all remaining particles that were not completely dissolved chemically. The result: a crystal-clear, absolutely clean paint surface that offers optimal adhesion for coatings and polishes. Without this step, coatings would adhere to contaminants – with all the negative consequences for durability and appearance.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePurchase Recommendation: Q²M ClayLube for complete paint preparation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGYEON Q²M ClayLube is an indispensable tool for any thorough vehicle detailing. In a set with a GYEON clay bar, it forms a complete decontamination package. As an ideal addition to the complete preparation workflow, we recommend: \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/gyeon-q2m-iron-redefined-flugrostentferner\"\u003eQ²M Iron\u003c\/a\u003e as a chemical industrial fallout remover, \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/gyeon-q2m-tar-redefined-harzentferner-teerentferner\"\u003eQ²M Tar\u003c\/a\u003e as a tar remover, Q²M ClayLube + clay bar for mechanical decontamination, and \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/gyeon-q2m-prep-entfetter-alkoholbasis\"\u003eQ²M Prep\u003c\/a\u003e for final degreasing before coating.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"GYEON","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":57020026880335,"sku":"D1-GYEON-Q2MCL500","price":15.0,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/gyeon-q2m-claylube-redefined-gleitmittel-reinigungsknete_500ml.png?v=1770933458"}],"url":"https:\/\/detailing1.co\/en\/collections\/vorreiniger.oembed","provider":"Detailing1","version":"1.0","type":"link"}