{"title":"Colore riempitivo di COLOURLOCK","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eStabilizing brittle leather with COLOURLOCK Filler\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is COLOURLOCK Filler? A pigment-free binder for brittle, micro-cracked leather surfaces: COLOURLOCK \"Binder\" (Neutral) penetrates the weakened topcoat of pigmented smooth leather, elastically bonds loose fibers from within, and restores the surface's structural integrity for leather color and topcoat.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFiller\u003c\/strong\u003e is the work step between priming and coloring: a pigment-free, highly elastic binder that holds a brittle leather surface back together. The name is misleading — it does not actually dye anything. The filler fills micro-cracks in the existing pigment layer, binds frayed fibers, and creates the substrate required for leather color to be applied evenly and adhere permanently. At COLOURLOCK, this task is performed by the neutral Binder.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\n\u003cstrong\u003ePigment-free, therefore invisible.\u003c\/strong\u003e The filler contains no colorants and changes neither the shade nor the gloss level. This means for you: You can apply it to an area that is still color-accurate and you won't see any difference afterwards — except that the surface will feel closed and smooth again instead of rough and fibrous.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\n\u003cstrong\u003ePenetrating instead of build-up.\u003c\/strong\u003e A filler adds mass to the surface, but this binder soaks in. It penetrates the broken topcoat, surrounds loose pigment particles, and bonds them flexibly to one another — the repair happens beneath the surface, not on top of it. You can tell because the grain remains visible; nothing looks smeared.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\n\u003cstrong\u003eElastic enough for folds.\u003c\/strong\u003e Water-based polyurethane binders for leather achieve elongation at break values exceeding 170 percent, far more than one and a half times their original length. Practically speaking: the stabilized surface moves with every entry and every steering movement instead of tearing back open like a fine net on the first cold morning. Available in 250 ml and 1000 ml \/ 1 liter sizes.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eProfessional tip from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e The most common mistake is already hidden in the term \"filler\" — many people expect a putty and apply it accordingly thick. That is exactly what ruins the result: a heavy layer dries on the outside, remains soft on the inside, becomes gummy, and tears sooner than the leather underneath. We regularly receive inquiries from customers whose refinished seat bolster showed fine cracks again after a few weeks, and almost always the first layer was applied too heavily. The opposite is correct: apply thinly using a sponge, swab, or brush, let it dry briefly, then apply the next layer. Two thin layers are better than one thick one — and if the surface still feels unstable after the second layer, add a third, not a thicker one.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFiller does not provide color, it provides durability\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhen leather ages, the color disappears first, followed by its structural integrity. The filler takes care of the second part — the one you only notice when you touch it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePigmented smooth leather has a thin, closed topcoat on the grain. Sun, friction, and skin oils attack this polymer over the years: it becomes brittle, loses its bond to the fibers underneath, and develops microscopic cracks. This becomes visible long before a real crack appears — as a matte, rough zone on the seat bolster, entry edge, or steering wheel rim that feels dull and slightly fibrous. If you run your finger over it, there is a slight drag.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is exactly where the binder comes in. It is a water-based dispersion, meaning ultra-fine polymer particles suspended in water. After application, the water evaporates, and the particles flow together into a cohesive film — coating chemistry calls this film formation. Because this binder is formulated to be thin and penetrating, this happens not just on the surface, but in the broken gaps of the old topcoat. In other words: It acts like a glue that pulls back together from the inside what has drifted apart.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTiming determines the effort. A surface that is merely brittle needs two to three thin layers and is then load-bearing again. The same surface a year later, with visible hairline cracks and frayed edges, additionally requires filler, intermediate sanding, and usually a complete recoloring from seam to seam. Taking the rough texture seriously early on saves you the elaborate process later.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe neutral binder is the binding agent of this category\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThere is one product in this category, and it intentionally has only one task: COLOURLOCK \"Binder\" (Neutral).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eNeutral here means without any pigment. The binder does not change the color of the surface; it does not lighten, darken, or shift the gloss level toward a greasy look. This is why it also works where you do not want to change the color at all: a dark leather sofa with a rough seat can be stabilized without having to search for a color match.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIts typical areas of use are where clothing rubs constantly. In the car, these are the driver's seat bolster, entry edge, armrest, and steering wheel rim; in furniture, the front edge of the seat and the armrests; for bags, belts, and leather jackets, the crease and grip zones. In all these places, the topcoat is the first to become brittle, while the rest of the surface still looks flawless.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTwo sizes cover realistic project needs. The 250 ml format is for a single bolster, a steering wheel, or a sofa edge — with enough left over for a second pass, which is almost always needed. The liter is the workshop size for complete seating sets that are stabilized over the entire surface before a spray gun is used. In our experience, DIY users are almost always right with the small container: the binder is applied thinly, and an opened bottle lasts a long time if stored frost-free.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFiller, body filler, and leather color solve three different types of damage\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThree product groups that all sound like repairs work on three completely different problems. Confusing them means working on the wrong type of damage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFiller is for surface brittleness. No loss of material, no holes — the substance is still there, it just no longer holds together. This is the case where your fingernail doesn't catch anywhere, but the surface feels rough and crackles slightly when pressed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ca href=\"\/it\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-reparatur-leder-fuellstoffe\"\u003eLeather fillers\u003c\/a\u003e are for the opposite case: actual loss of material. COLOURLOCK \"Filler\" (Black) and COLOURLOCK \"Filler\" (White) provide elastic mass for craters, nicks, and worn-through areas and are sanded finely after drying. If your fingernail catches in a crack, you need filler — not a binder. For deeper, heat-curing repairs, \u003ca href=\"\/it\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-reparatur-spachtelmasse\"\u003eputty\u003c\/a\u003e is available.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ca href=\"\/it\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-faerben-deckende-lederfarbe\"\u003eOpaque leather color\u003c\/a\u003e finally provides pigment. COLOURLOCK \"Leather Colour\" builds a new color layer in thin coats when nothing of the original tone is left. It does not repair anything, it covers — and it only covers permanently if the surface underneath is sound.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis leads to a simple \"if-then\" logic. If the surface is rough but intact, start with the filler. If material is missing, start with the body filler and then use the filler over the transitions if necessary. If both are fine and only the tone looks dull, skip the whole process and stick to the \u003ca href=\"\/it\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-faerben-farbauffrischer\"\u003ecolor refresher\u003c\/a\u003e. In our consulting, this is exactly the question we clarify most often: most customers overestimate their damage and underestimate the preparation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eDegrease, let dry thinly, sand in between, only then color\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA binder only binds to what it reaches. Anything between the binder and the leather is a release layer — and release layers are the reason why leather repairs fail.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat is why the process starts with cleaning using a \u003ca href=\"\/it\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-reinigung-lederreiniger\"\u003eleather cleaner\u003c\/a\u003e and a soft brush, followed by the step almost everyone skips: degreasing with COLOURLOCK \"Degreaser\". It is only finished when a white cotton cloth no longer picks up any color. Anyone who uses brake cleaner, acetone, or denatured alcohol instead will remove the grease but also attack the tanning in the fiber — after that, no system from any manufacturer will hold in that spot.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn difficult, heavily silicone-contaminated, or very smooth surfaces, use a \u003ca href=\"\/it\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-faerben-grundierung\"\u003eprimer\u003c\/a\u003e before the filler: COLOURLOCK \"Leather Primer\" as an adhesion bridge, COLOURLOCK \"Blocker\" as a barrier layer if denim dye transfer is showing through. With intact, cleanly degreased smooth leather, you can skip this step — but it is better not to for older leather with a long history of care products.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThen comes the binder, applied in several fine layers using a sponge, swab, or brush. Let it dry briefly between layers, sand lightly with a very fine leather sanding pad for deeper irregularities, and remove sanding dust with a microfiber cloth. The application temperature is about 18 to 24 degrees Celsius: below this, the polymer particles do not flow together cleanly; above this, the surface dries before the binder has penetrated.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOnly then does the color application begin — depending on the case, with a color refresher or opaque leather color, finished with the \u003ca href=\"\/it\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-faerben-top-coat\"\u003etop coat\u003c\/a\u003e as a wear layer. Use the \u003ca href=\"\/it\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-faerben-additive\"\u003eadditives\u003c\/a\u003e to adjust the finish: the Crosslinker makes color and top coat more durable, the Duller lowers the gloss level, and Soft Slip and Wax Slip determine the feel. At the end is the part that no product can shorten: chemical cross-linking takes 24 to 48 hours, and for that long, neither jeans nor re-greasing care products belong on the surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the filler ends and the upholsterer begins\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA binder can hold a weakened structure together. It cannot replace a destroyed one — and that line is sharper than most expect.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe first limit is the type of leather. Aniline, nubuck, suede, and Alcantara are open-pored and have no topcoat that could be stabilized. A binder will saturate the fiber structure there, make the surface stiff, and take away exactly what you bought the leather for. A drop of water in an inconspicuous spot clarifies this in thirty seconds: if it soaks in and darkens the spot, the leather requires \u003ca href=\"\/it\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-pflege-anilinleder\"\u003eaniline leather care\u003c\/a\u003e, not a binder.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe second limit is actual loss of substance. If the fiber network beneath the grain is torn or punctured, no chemical can withstand the tensile forces that occur when sitting down — the repair will tear open again. The same applies to leather that has shrunk irreversibly due to decades of heat and feels like cardboard: the material will break next to the treated area upon the first flex. We prefer to say this beforehand rather than afterwards, because both cases will not improve with good intentions and three layers of binder.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe third limit is safety-relevant and non-negotiable. Seat bolsters with integrated side airbags have a predetermined breaking seam that must tear open precisely in the event of deployment. Any binder, filler, or top coat will stiffen the material there — none of those have any place on that seam. Such seams, detached covers, and saggy cushions are upholsterer work. Also be careful with perforated leather for seat ventilation: the binder will clog the fine pores if applied too heavily, and with the pores, the function disappears.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnd an honest assessment of expectations: this is workshop chemistry, not a weekend polish. The sequence of degreasing, priming, filling, coloring, top coating, and additives follows the data sheet, not intuition, and the order is not optional. If you don't want the effort, you are better served with a color refresher for light cases — or with a professional detailer who does the surface in one pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhen the filler is your first step\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTwo checks on the damaged area clarify the decision faster than any product description: run your fingernail over it once, and place a drop of water on it once.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf the drop beads up and the nail doesn't catch anywhere, while the surface still feels rough, dull, and fibrous — then COLOURLOCK \"Binder\" (Neutral) is exactly right, and that is before any color comes into play. If the drop soaks in, your leather is open-pored and this category is the wrong one. If the nail catches in a crack, start with the \u003ca href=\"\/it\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-reparatur-leder-fuellstoffe\"\u003ebody filler\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf the surface is stable again afterwards, the condition of the color determines the next step: only become dull, then the \u003ca href=\"\/it\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-faerben-farbauffrischer\"\u003ecolor refresher\u003c\/a\u003e is enough; visibly worn off, then the \u003ca href=\"\/it\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-faerben-deckende-lederfarbe\"\u003eopaque leather color\u003c\/a\u003e and the top coat over it. If you don't want to assemble the components individually, you can find matched combinations in the \u003ca href=\"\/it\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-sets-reparatursets\"\u003erepair kits\u003c\/a\u003e. One level up are all the brand's color stages: \u003ca href=\"\/it\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-faerben-lederfarben\"\u003eBack to COLOURLOCK leather colors\u003c\/a\u003e, and you can find the complete range under \u003ca href=\"\/it\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-faerben\"\u003eDyeing \u0026amp; Finish\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe idea that supports this category is unspectacular and yet makes all the difference: the filler is the only step in the dyeing process that you don't see in the result — and the first one whose absence you do see. Any leather dyeing job that tears open again after months is the bill for a surface that was never load-bearing. Two thin layers of binder on an afternoon decide whether the work above it lasts for years or for a single season.\u003c\/p\u003e\n","products":[{"product_id":"koch-chemie-colourlock-binder-neutral-neutrale-fuellfarbe","title":"COLOURLOCK \"Binder\" (Neutral) — riempitivo neutro per pelle fragile e screpolata","description":"\u003ch2\u003eCOLOURLOCK Binder (Neutral) — riempitivo neutro per riparazioni strutturali della pelle\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eCosa fa il COLOURLOCK Binder Neutral? — Il binder neutro stabilizza le superfici in pelle danneggiate, riempie crepe sottili e zone usurate, rinforza la struttura e crea la base portante prima che passi prodotti colorati come Leather Fresh o Fluid Leather.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCOLOURLOCK Binder (Neutral)\u003c\/strong\u003e è il fondo professionale per le riparazioni strutturali della pelle. Il binder rassoda lo strato di pigmento superiore, riempie le microcrepe, maschera i lievi danni alle fibre e prepara la pelle in modo che i prodotti colorati aderiscano meglio dopo e coprano in modo uniforme. Nella versione neutra non contiene pigmenti e serve solo a stabilizzare, non a correggere il colore. Ideale per auto, mobili, fashion e tutte le pelli lisce pigmentate che mostrano usura, graffi o le prime screpolature.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eStabilizza le superfici in pelle indebolite\u003c\/strong\u003e – Rassoda lo strato di pigmento ed evita che le piccole crepe si aprano di più.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLivella le microstrutture\u003c\/strong\u003e – Riempie le zone usurate sottili e ti dà una superficie più liscia come base di riparazione.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBase neutra per il colore\u003c\/strong\u003e – Niente pigmento, niente tinta – puro rinforzo strutturale prima di Leather Fresh o Fluid Leather.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eTecnologia del binder \u0026amp; come funziona sulla pelle usurata\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBinder Neutral\u003c\/strong\u003e sfrutta leganti elastici e ad alta presa che penetrano nelle zone danneggiate dello strato di finitura e lì costruiscono una nuova struttura elastica. Mentre col tempo la pelle diventa microscopicamente fragile per attrito e UV, il binder agisce come un „primer-filler“ riparatore: collega le particelle di pigmento staccate, chiude le piccole rotture ed evita ulteriore sfilacciamento. Secondo Koch-Chemie lo strato resta elastico, così la pelle mantiene la sua naturale capacità di movimento. Il binder neutro non cambia né il colore né il grado di lucentezza — dà solo quella stabilità strutturale che fa aderire molto meglio gli strati di colore successivi.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003ePreparazione, applicazione \u0026amp; la giusta sequenza di riparazione\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePrima di usare il \u003cstrong\u003eBinder\u003c\/strong\u003e, la pelle va pulita e sgrassata a fondo, così il riempitivo penetra in modo uniforme. Il binder lo passi sottile con spugnetta, tampone o pennello e lo costruisci in più strati fini, finché la superficie torna a sentirsi strutturalmente solida. Tra uno strato e l’altro lascialo asciugare un attimo, così non restano zone irregolari. Sui danni un po’ più profondi puoi carteggiare leggermente nel mezzo per ottimizzare la levigatezza. Dopo la fase binder arriva il colore: Leather Fresh per ritocchi leggeri o Fluid Leather per riparazioni più decise. Solo su una superficie stabilizzata questi prodotti coprono in modo uniforme e durano nel tempo.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eRisultati, impieghi tipici \u0026amp; differenza dai prodotti colorati\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDopo l’applicazione la zona è più liscia, più solida e decisamente meglio preparata per un ravvivamento del colore. \u003cstrong\u003eBinder Neutral\u003c\/strong\u003e entra in gioco ovunque ci siano danni strutturali: fianchetti dei sedili, volanti, bordi dei mobili, le zone più sollecitate di borse e giacche. Non sostituisce una riparazione colore completa — per quello sono ideali le varianti colorate della serie Binder o Leather Fresh. Neutral è volutamente la base „invisibile“ che ottimizza struttura, compattezza e presa. Soprattutto nell’abitacolo crea le fondamenta perché le riparazioni successive non si sfoglino o non vengano a macchie.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eDomande frequenti sul COLOURLOCK Binder (Neutral)\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eIl binder colora la pelle?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNo. La versione neutra non contiene alcun pigmento e serve solo alla stabilizzazione strutturale.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eIl binder è la stessa cosa del colore per pelle?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNo. Il binder è un prodotto di riempimento e rinforzo. Per i ritocchi di colore usi Leather Fresh o Fluid Leather.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eQuanti strati servono?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDa uno a più strati sottili a seconda del danno. L’importante: lavorare sempre con poco prodotto e far asciugare bene.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003ePosso usare il binder senza primer?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCon buone condizioni di presa sì. Su superfici difficili o ricche di silicone conviene il Leather Primer prima.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eLa riparazione col binder dura di più?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSì. Le superfici stabilizzate fissano meglio il colore e sono meno soggette a riaprirsi.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003csmall\u003eUltimo aggiornamento: 02.12.2025 — Autore: Daniel (Detailing1)\u003c\/small\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Koch-Chemie × COLOURLOCK","offers":[{"title":"Neutral \/ 1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":56320202899791,"sku":"D1-KCX-481-1L-01","price":49.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"Neutral \/ 250ml","offer_id":56320202932559,"sku":"D1-KCX-481-250ML-01","price":18.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/481-1L-01_1.png?v=1762116834"}],"url":"https:\/\/detailing1.co\/it\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-faerben-fuellfarbe.oembed","provider":"Detailing1","version":"1.0","type":"link"}