{"title":"Detergente pelle e fissatore colore di COLOURLOCK","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eWashed leather stays soft and colorfast with COLOURLOCK\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat are COLOURLOCK leather detergents \u0026amp; color fixatives? A two-component system for washing leather jackets, motorcycle suits, and lambskins: a replenishing wash concentrate with mild surfactants for hand washing and delicate cycles up to 35°C, plus a color fixative that binds loose dyes before the wash cycle and prevents bleeding.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLeather detergents from COLOURLOCK\u003c\/strong\u003e answer a question that every washing machine manual leaves open: how do you wash leather and fur without ruining them both? This category consists of two products with clearly defined roles. The wash concentrate cleans washable leather and fur items while replenishing oils in the fibers instead of stripping them. The color fixative anchors loose dyes in the leather before the first drop of water can mobilize them. Both products originate from COLOURLOCK’s practical experience in leather repair, now under the umbrella of Koch-Chemie.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\n\u003cstrong\u003eReplenishing instead of stripping.\u003c\/strong\u003e Regular laundry detergents are alkaline and flush the tanning oils out of leather fibers—the result is a stiff, warped piece. This wash concentrate follows a tanner's formula: mild surfactants dissolve sweat and dirt, while lanolin derivatives nourish the fibers. At a maximum of 35°C on a delicate cycle, the leather emerges from the drum feeling supple.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\n\u003cstrong\u003eColors stay where the tanner put them.\u003c\/strong\u003e The color fixative is used as a pre-wash bath to bind loose pigments in the top layer of the leather. Dark seams and colored areas will not bleed into light-colored inlays during the wash—the most common irreversible disaster in leather washing is prevented before it even starts.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\n\u003cstrong\u003eA system for leather and fur.\u003c\/strong\u003e From motorcycle suits and leather jackets to lambskins, this combination covers everything labeled as washable—whether by hand or in the machine. The concentrate is available in a 250 ml trial size and a 1000 ml \/ 1 liter size; the fixative is available in 100 ml and 1000 ml \/ 1 liter sizes.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePractical tip from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e The most expensive mistake in leather washing happens before the wash—the missing color test. Rub a damp white cloth with some pressure over a hidden area, such as the inside of the collar or the hem. If the cloth picks up color, the leather is not colorfast, and the fixative bath is mandatory, not optional. We regularly receive inquiries about two-tone jackets and suits where black has bled into white—afterward, only re-dyeing helps, but a thirty-second color test beforehand would have been enough.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eRegular detergent turns leather into a board\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLeather handles water much better than its reputation suggests—what it cannot handle is the chemistry of regular laundry detergents. Full-duty detergents are alkaline and their surfactants break down fats, which is their job. However, in leather fibers, fats are not dirt; they are the lubricant between the collagen fibers—and that is exactly what they wash out. What remains is a piece that feels like cardboard and crinkles when bent.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCOLOURLOCK's wash concentrate reverses this logic. It works with mild, leather-compatible surfactants and lanolin—the wool wax from sheep shearing, the same fat that keeps raw wool water-repellent and supple. During the wash, sweat, sebum, and road grime are dissolved, while at the same time, the fats are returned to the open pores. For you, this means: the jacket comes out of the drum soft and does not require days of post-treatment before it is wearable again.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWashing is for things that a surface cleaner cannot reach. A \u003ca href=\"\/it\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-reinigung-lederreiniger\"\u003eleather cleaner\u003c\/a\u003e works on the surface—it is the right tool for installed car seats, steering wheels, and furniture. Sweat in the lining of a motorcycle suit, odors in a vintage leather jacket, or a heavily soiled lambskin go deeper: only washing through the entire material works here. This category exists precisely for these cases.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt is no coincidence that a repair specialist developed this detergent. Since 1995, COLOURLOCK has supplied detailers and saddlers who restore hardened, faded leather—and therefore knows both ends of the story: the incorrectly washed leather on the workbench and the formula that would have prevented exactly that.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eTwo products share one leather wash\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe division of labor is strict: the \u003ca href=\"\/it\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-reinigung-waschkonzentrat\"\u003eleather wash concentrate\u003c\/a\u003e cleans, while the \u003ca href=\"\/it\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-reinigung-farbfixierer\"\u003ecolor fixative\u003c\/a\u003e secures the color. COLOURLOCK \"Leather \u0026amp; Fur Wash Concentrate\" takes on the role one expects from a detergent—just with a formula for skin rather than textiles.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe concentrate is explicitly formulated for both leather and fur. This sounds like a detail, but with lambskin, it determines the result: the hair side needs mild cleaning without matting, while the leather backing needs replenishment—a product that can only do one of the two will leave you with either dull fur or hard skin. Wash on a delicate cycle at a maximum of 35°C or by hand in lukewarm water, using a sparing dose.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCOLOURLOCK \"Leather Fixative\" is used beforehand. The slightly acidic fixative attaches to loose, incompletely bound dye particles and anchors them in the top layer of the leather—without leaving a film or noticeably changing the feel. It is prepared as a bath before the wash cycle and is suitable for aniline, nubuck, and pigmented leathers; it can also be used as a standalone fixative for leather that bleeds dye even outside of the washing process.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe container sizes follow usage patterns. A single machine cycle requires about one-third to one-half of a small bottle of concentrate—so the 250 ml covers the jacket and lambskin you wash once a year. If you wash motorcycle gear for the whole family or take in washable leather items as a professional detailer, the 1000 ml \/ 1 liter size is much more economical. The same applies to the fixative: 100 ml for individual cases, the liter for regular use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you need both components for the first time, you don't have to put them together individually: the \u003ca href=\"\/it\/products\/koch-chemie-colourlock-leather-wash-set\"\u003eCOLOURLOCK \"Leather Wash Set\"\u003c\/a\u003e combines the wash concentrate and fixative in one package—the easiest introduction to your first machine wash.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eNot every wash requires the color fixative\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTo be honest: you can wash a single-colored, colorfast, pigmented leather with the concentrate alone—the color test from the practical tip is the deciding factor. The fixative bath becomes mandatory whenever colors are adjacent: dark seams on a light background, two-tone suits, or color-intensive inlays. And for open-pored leathers like aniline and nubuck, whose dyes are fundamentally weaker than in coated goods.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe mechanism behind it is simpler than it sounds. In every dyed leather, some of the dyes are loose—not fully bound into the fiber, and mobile as soon as water and surfactants are introduced. The fixative binds these exact particles before the wash sets them in motion. You can tell it worked if the wash water remains clear instead of taking on the color of the jacket.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe limits are just as clear. The fixative stabilizes existing pigments—it does not refresh faded areas or cover worn spots. That is the job of the COLOURLOCK dye line, not the laundry shelf. What we at Detailing1 see again and again: those who expect both in one step are better advised to re-dye after the wash than to hope that the bath will bring color back on its own.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWash at 35 degrees, dry lying flat\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe procedure in summary: First, check washability—label, manufacturer instructions, or the manufacturer themselves in case of doubt. Then the color test, the fixative bath if necessary, followed by the wash on a wool or delicate cycle at a maximum of 35°C, without a high spin speed. Hand washing in a tub works the same way, just with more patience for rinsing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHigh-stress areas benefit from a pre-wash. Collars, cuffs, and lining edges collect sweat and sebum over the years—in a normal wash cycle, this ingrained dirt simply stays put. Before machine washing, these areas should therefore be specifically pre-treated with the concentrate and a soft brush. Two minutes of manual labor that determine whether the collar is clean after washing or was merely wet.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe 35°C is not a recommendation, but a limit. Leather is protein: above this temperature, protein structures begin to coagulate—the same process that makes an egg solid in boiling water, and just as irreversible. Leather washed too hot shrinks, warps, and remains hard, no matter how good the detergent was. In other words: the temperature button on the machine is the most important control in the entire leather washing process.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWe often see that the washing is successful and only the drying ruins the result. Leather and fur should be dried lying flat, pulled into shape, at room temperature—never on a heater, never in the sun. While drying, move and knead it occasionally so the fibers learn to slide against each other instead of hardening while stuck together; gently brush out furs after drying. The first time, the leather may feel stiffer than expected when semi-dry—that is normal and disappears with kneading.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the wash is before the care: freshly washed smooth leather is particularly grateful for a thin layer of \u003ca href=\"\/it\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-pflege\"\u003eCOLOURLOCK leather care\u003c\/a\u003e—it replaces the surface fats that even the gentlest wash removes from the exterior.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWool detergent cares for the wool, not the leather\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe classic advice for lambskins is to use wool detergent with lanolin—it is not wrong, it is just half-right. The lanolin in the wool detergent cares for the hair side; however, the leather backing still loses its fats in the alkaline wash and dries out stiff like a board. That is precisely why the wash concentrate is formulated for both leather and fur: it treats fur as what it is—skin with hair.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOnline forums are full of the results of half-advice: lambskins that are as hard as a doormat after washing, and the rescue is days of manual labor—re-moistening, pulling over a blunt edge, kneading, re-moistening. Prevention, on the other hand, is just a change in detergent and the right temperature. From the Detailing1 daily routine: the lambskin question reaches us every autumn when baby skins and seat pads are to be freshened up before winter—almost always after the first failed wash, rarely before.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the motorcycle community, many have washed their suits with liquid detergent in the machine for years—with the well-known aftermath that the suit comes out of the drum stiff and only becomes supple again after several evenings of working in leather oil. The replenishing concentrate saves exactly this post-processing step because the fats return during the wash cycle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor very old suits, heirlooms, and jackets with unknown tanning processes, professional cleaning at a leather specialist remains the honest alternative—there, they check what the material can handle before washing. For everything else that the manufacturer declares as washable, home washing with the right detergent is the cheaper and faster way.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhen leather washing is really worth it\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe decision depends on the application. Removable and washable plus odor, sweat, or surface dirt: wash. Fixed or only superficially dirty: wipe—car seats and steering wheels are never washed; that is what cleaners are for. Not declared as washable, exotic tanning, or irreplaceable: go to a professional.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWithin the washing process, the allocation is just as brief. Single-colored and colorfast: the wash concentrate alone. Multicolored, aniline, nubuck, or a positive color test: fixative bath first, then wash. If you are starting from zero, take the Leather Wash Set with both components—further combinations for cleaning and care are bundled in the \u003ca href=\"\/it\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-lederpflegesets\"\u003ecleaning \u0026amp; care sets\u003c\/a\u003e. You can find all other cleaning products from the brand one level up: \u003ca href=\"\/it\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-reinigung\"\u003eBack to COLOURLOCK cleaning\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnd count on the right rhythm: leather washing is the exception, not the routine. A motorcycle suit is due after a season, a lambskin as needed, a leather jacket often only after years—in between, a brush and cleaner are sufficient. Precisely because washing is so rare, it is worth doing it right the first time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe thought that stands over this entire category: no care product in the world can bring back incorrectly washed leather—the decision between soft or board-stiff is made before the drum starts spinning. Color test, 35 degrees, replenishing detergent: these three points separate the jacket that looks like it was just bought from the one that ends up as illustrative material for the repair department.\u003c\/p\u003e\n","products":[{"product_id":"koch-chemie-colourlock-leather-fixative-farbfixierer","title":"COLOURLOCK \"Leather Fixative\" fissatore di colore contro lo sbiadimento dei colori al lavaggio","description":"\u003ch2\u003eFissaggio del colore affidabile per la pelle lavabile con COLOURLOCK Leather Fixative\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eA cosa serve COLOURLOCK Leather Fixative? — Il fissatore blocca i coloranti mobili nelle pelli anilina, nabuk e pigmentate, evita lo sbiadimento durante il lavaggio o la pulizia e tiene il colore dove deve stare.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCOLOURLOCK Leather Fixative\u003c\/strong\u003e è la soluzione pro quando vuoi davvero tenere sotto controllo i coloranti della pelle. Soprattutto sulla pelle lavabile – pensa a parti auto, borse, fodere sedili o capi fashion – il fissatore evita che il pigmento in eccesso esca durante il lavaggio o la pulizia. La formula arriva dritta dalla tecnologia pelle di COLOURLOCK: blocca i coloranti che hanno iniziato a muoversi, ferma la migrazione indesiderata e ti dà un risultato uniforme e tranquillo – indispensabile sulle pelli delicate come anilina, nabuk e pelli auto semi-anilina.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBlocca lo sbiadimento in modo affidabile\u003c\/strong\u003e – la tecnologia fissante lega i coloranti mobili così non si staccano al lavaggio e non passano sui materiali vicini.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eVa bene su ogni pelle lavabile\u003c\/strong\u003e – perfetto per auto, mobili, fashion e accessori; secondo Koch-Chemie, per ogni pelle in cui la tenuta del colore conta.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eStabilizza la superficie\u003c\/strong\u003e – dopo il trattamento la pelle è più stabile nel colore, e questo rende i passaggi di pulizia o cura successivi più sicuri e uniformi.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eTecnologia di fissaggio \u0026amp; come funziona sulle pelli che stingono\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLeather Fixative\u003c\/strong\u003e usa un componente fissante dedicato che si aggrappa ai coloranti sciolti, non del tutto legati. Conta soprattutto sulle pelli a poro aperto o delicate, dove i coloranti tengono meno delle pelli auto pigmentate moderne. La matrice legante del fissatore blocca quelle particelle così non si staccano appena incontrano acqua o un detergente. Secondo Koch-Chemie, la formula protegge soprattutto dal dilavamento che vedi su abbigliamento in pelle, capi da moto o parti interne lavabili. Allo stesso tempo la mano naturale della pelle resta intatta, perché il fissaggio avviene nello strato superiore e non lascia film visibile.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003ePreparazione, uso \u0026amp; metodo sicuro al lavaggio\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePrima di prendere il \u003cstrong\u003eLeather Fixative\u003c\/strong\u003e, la pelle deve essere libera dallo sporco grosso. Il fissatore si usa o come pretrattamento prima del lavaggio della pelle, o come fissaggio a sé. Lo passi in modo uniforme sulla superficie, lo lasci agire un attimo e lo fai penetrare con delicatezza così i coloranti mobili vengono legati. Poi arriva il lavaggio, o un passaggio più delicato, a seconda del lavoro. La cosa importante è non esagerare con la dose – un velo sottile e uniforme basta e avanza. Su pelli che stingono molto vale la pena un veloce controllo della tenuta del colore dopo. Una volta fissata, la pelle si cura e si pulisce molto più facilmente in seguito, senza che torni a stingere.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eRisultati, ambiti d'uso \u0026amp; vantaggio nel dettaglio\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDopo l'uso il colore tiene molto meglio, soprattutto da bagnato. La pelle è più tranquilla, più uniforme e più sicura su cui lavorare. Per chi fa detailing auto, il \u003cstrong\u003eLeather Fixative\u003c\/strong\u003e è perfetto quando parti interne molto colorate rischiano di stingere in pulizia. Nella moda evita che giacche, borse o scarpe stingano al lavaggio o con molta umidità. Anche i mobili e la pelle delle auto d'epoca ne traggono vantaggio, perché lì la migrazione del colore è spesso un problema. Il fissatore però non sostituisce un ravvivante o una riparazione del colore; si limita a bloccare il pigmento già presente e a impedire che si muova.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eDomande frequenti su COLOURLOCK Leather Fixative\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003ePer quali tipi di pelle è adatto il fissatore di colore?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePer quasi tutti: anilina, nabuk, pelle pigmentata più pelle lavabile da fashion e da arredamento. Particolarmente efficace su superfici che stingono o delicate.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eIl fissatore cambia il colore della pelle?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNo. Il prodotto fissa solo i coloranti mobili, ma non cambia la tonalità né la superficie della pelle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003ePosso lavare o pulire normalmente dopo?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSì. Il fissatore è fatto proprio per rendere più sicuri lavaggio o pulizia, stabilizzando prima le particelle di colore.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eDevo risciacquare il prodotto dopo il fissaggio?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSolo se segue un lavaggio della pelle. Per un semplice fissaggio senza lavaggio basta farla asciugare in modo uniforme.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eIl fissatore aiuta anche contro il trasferimento di colore sui vestiti?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSì, riduce parecchio il rischio frenando la migrazione dei coloranti. Su pelli che stingono molto può avere senso un secondo passaggio.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003csmall\u003eUltimo aggiornamento: 02.12.2025 — Autore: Daniel (Detailing1)\u003c\/small\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Koch-Chemie × COLOURLOCK","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":56320223707471,"sku":"D1-KCX-484-1L-01","price":43.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"100ml","offer_id":56320223740239,"sku":"D1-KCX-484-100ML-01","price":10.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/484-1L-01_1.png?v=1762117529"},{"product_id":"koch-chemie-colourlock-leather-fur-wash-concentrate-waschkonzentrat","title":"COLOURLOCK \"Leather \u0026 Fur Wash Concentrate\" concentrato di lavaggio per pelle e pelliccia","description":"\u003ch2\u003eCOLOURLOCK Leather \u0026amp; Fur Wash Concentrate — concentrato di lavaggio specializzato per pelle \u0026amp; pelliccia\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eA cosa serve COLOURLOCK Leather \u0026amp; Fur Wash Concentrate? — Il concentrato pulisce in modo delicato gli articoli lavabili in pelle e pelliccia, in lavatrice o a mano, li mantiene morbidi ed evita che la pelle diventi dura, opaca o macchiata dopo il lavaggio.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCOLOURLOCK Leather \u0026amp; Fur Wash Concentrate\u003c\/strong\u003e è la soluzione da pro quando vuoi pulire in sicurezza articoli lavabili in pelle e pelliccia — dall'abbigliamento moto ai capi in pelle, fino agli articoli in shearling. Dove i normali detersivi seccano la pelle, la sgrassano o la lasciano rigida, questo concentrato stabilizza la struttura della pelle, pulisce a fondo e mantiene la morbidezza naturale. Perfetto per moda, equitazione, rivestimenti per mobili, accessori e tutto ciò che è dichiarato chiaramente come lavabile.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePulizia delicata\u003c\/strong\u003e – Tira via sporco, odori e grassi corporei senza rovinare la pelle.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMantiene la morbidezza\u003c\/strong\u003e – Evita l'indurimento o la deformazione che ottieni lavando la pelle nel modo sbagliato.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePer pelle \u0026amp; pelliccia\u003c\/strong\u003e – Perfetto per shearling, montone, capi in pelle e materiali misti.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eChimica della pulizia \u0026amp; come agisce su pelle e pelliccia\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLeather \u0026amp; Fur Wash Concentrate\u003c\/strong\u003e si basa su tensioattivi particolarmente delicati e compatibili con la pelle, che sciolgono lo sporco senza togliere le strutture grasse di pelle e pelliccia. Ciò che distingue la vera pelle dal tessile è la sua struttura fibrosa naturale, che reagisce in modo sensibile all'acqua e agli sbalzi di temperatura. Il concentrato stabilizza i grassi e l'equilibrio di umidità nel materiale, evita il restringimento e mantiene l'elasticità — fondamentale per montone, fodere in pelliccia e pelle nappa. Secondo il produttore, la formula è pensata per non \"inondare\" i capillari della pelle, così non si formano bordi duri, aloni di lavaggio o zone rigide.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003ePreparazione, dosaggio \u0026amp; il modo giusto di lavare\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePrima di prendere il \u003cstrong\u003eLeather \u0026amp; Fur Wash Concentrate\u003c\/strong\u003e, controlla che l'articolo sia indicato come \"lavabile\" — sia per la pelle che per la pelliccia. Spazzola via prima lo sporco superficiale. Per la lavatrice scegli un programma delicato con temperatura bassa e centrifuga ridotta; a mano usa acqua tiepida. Il concentrato lo dosi secondo il produttore, lo mescoli con parsimonia e lo distribuisci in modo uniforme. Durante il lavaggio, la formula impedisce alla pelle di perdere la sua struttura oleosa naturale. Dopo il lavaggio fai asciugare l'articolo in piano, rimettilo in forma ogni tanto e, con le pellicce, dai una spazzolata delicata per riportare la struttura naturale.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eRisultati, impieghi \u0026amp; cosa ci guadagni ogni giorno\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDopo la pulizia, pelle e pelliccia sono più morbide, fresche e pulite a livello igienico, senza diventare fragili o dure. Il concentrato va bene per tute da moto, giacche in pelle, abbigliamento da equitazione, montoni, scarpe con fodera in pelliccia, pellicce per mobili e tanto altro. Non è adatto all'anilina non trattata o alle pelli estremamente delicate non approvate per il lavaggio. Sulla pelliccia in particolare, il concentrato evita l'infeltrimento e mantiene il tono naturale delle fibre del pelo. Il risultato è una finitura pulita e curata che mantiene la sua qualità di materiale originale.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eDomande frequenti su COLOURLOCK Leather \u0026amp; Fur Wash Concentrate\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003ePosso lavarci qualsiasi pelle?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSolo i tipi di pelle lavabili. Le pelli non adatte come l'anilina non si lavano — puliscile in modo delicato.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eIl concentrato va bene per pellicce a pelo lungo?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSì. Riduce l'infeltrimento e mantiene la struttura naturale. Spazzola con delicatezza una volta asciutta.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eIl lavaggio cambia la tonalità?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDi solito no. Con pelli molto delicate o poco stabili al colore, piccoli cambiamenti sono possibili.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003ePosso mescolarlo con un detersivo normale?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNo. Il detersivo classico può seccare la pelle, meglio non combinarlo.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eCome asciugo correttamente pelle e pelliccia?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn piano, all'aria, lontano da fonti di calore. Rimettilo in forma ogni tanto durante l'asciugatura.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003csmall\u003eUltimo aggiornamento: 02.12.2025 — Autore: Daniel (Detailing1)\u003c\/small\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Koch-Chemie × COLOURLOCK","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":56320338886991,"sku":"D1-KCX-489-1L-01","price":56.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"250ml","offer_id":56320338919759,"sku":"D1-KCX-489-250ML-01","price":21.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/489-1L-01_1.png?v=1778250881"}],"url":"https:\/\/detailing1.co\/it\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-reinigung-lederwaschmittel.oembed","provider":"Detailing1","version":"1.0","type":"link"}