{"title":"Protettivo per pelle vera di COLOURLOCK","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eNew leather stays new with the leather sealant from COLOURLOCK\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is the leather sealant from COLOURLOCK? An anti-friction barrier for pigmented real leather: COLOURLOCK \"Leather Shield\" applies a thin polymer film over the color layer, slowing down abrasion on entry bolsters, side bolsters, and steering wheels, and keeping jean indigo away from light-colored leather. Designed for leather in its first few years.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLeather sealant from COLOURLOCK\u003c\/strong\u003e is not a conditioner, but a sacrificial layer for pigmented real leather. COLOURLOCK \"Leather Shield\" coats the leather's finish as a thin polymer film and takes on the work that would otherwise wear down the color layer: friction on entry edges, side bolsters, and steering wheels, as well as dye from jeans that settles into light-colored leather. It belongs on intact leather, not damaged leather.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe film wears off so the color layer doesn't.\u003c\/strong\u003e In automotive leather, friction first attacks the finish — the thin pigment and topcoat you see and touch. The polymer film sits on top and becomes thinner in its place. Reapplying takes a few minutes per seat; a recolored side bolster is an appointment at the upholsterer.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\n\u003cstrong\u003eLight-colored seats and blue jeans get along again.\u003c\/strong\u003e Indigo from new denim clothing migrates into the leather under seat pressure and body heat, settling into the grain of the topcoat. On the smoother protective film, it cannot find these anchor points. You will notice it when the blue cast can be wiped away during the next mild cleaning instead of getting darker layer by layer.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\n\u003cstrong\u003eEvery three months for the driver's seat, once or twice a year for the rest.\u003c\/strong\u003e The protective layer doesn't need a stricter rhythm because it wears off evenly and can be renewed without any intermediate steps. No buffing required. The 100 ml covers an initial treatment of the interior; 1000 ml \/ 1 liter is the quantity for detailers and multi-vehicle households.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePro-tip from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e The most frequent inquiry on this topic comes three years too late. We receive cases where the driver's side bolster is already greasy and shiny and the light-colored Nappa on the entry edge has turned grayish — and at that point, no sealant can help because the color layer is already exposed. The protective film needs an intact finish beneath it. Therefore, for a new or like-new vehicle, perform a mild cleaning to remove manufacturing residues and hand oils, and then apply a thin layer of sealant — ideally within the week after taking delivery. Anyone who only reacts once they see the damage is looking for a repair, not maintenance.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003e\"Sealant\" is the wrong word for leather\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA leather sealant does not \"seal\" anything. It applies a sacrificial friction film over the finish and is designed to wear down evenly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe term comes from paint care, where it is appropriate: a paint sealant forms a closed, chemically bonded layer on a hard, immobile surface. A seat cover is the opposite of this. It is stretched, compressed, and folded every time you sit down. A truly closed layer would result in fine cracks after just a few weeks — and those cracks would then be the problem, not the abrasion.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is why COLOURLOCK \"Leather Shield\" works differently. The polymer film is soft, thin, and deliberately not permanent; it is meant to wear off. In the leather industry, this is called a sacrificial layer: it stands at the forefront of friction and is consumed instead of the layer beneath it, similar to a screen protector on a display. For you, this means wear still occurs — it just happens in the wrong place.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe layer beneath is what is truly valuable. Pigmented automotive leather consists of the hide, a primer, the color-providing pigment layer, and a polyurethane finish. What you touch while driving is this finish; it carries the color, gloss level, and tactile feel all at once. If it wears through in one spot, the color is gone, and no conditioner will bring it back. Beyond this point, recoloring is the only way.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhat the sealant deliberately does not do is what makes it useful. It does not create gloss, it is not greasy, it does not change the feel, and it has no odor after it has off-gassed. This exact restraint is why you would want to use it on a factory-new interior: the seat looks exactly as it did before. In the daily routine at Detailing1, this is the most common positive feedback — you don't see anything, and that is the point.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eIndigo from jeans migrates into the color layer\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNew jeans release indigo. Under body heat and seat pressure, the dye transfers onto light-colored leather and becomes permanently embedded over time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIndigo is a migratory dye that sits only superficially on cotton fibers during denim dyeing — which is why jeans fade at all. Whatever leaves the fiber seeks out the next surface, and a warm, slightly damp leather seat is ideal for this. The process works like carbon paper: pressure plus heat plus time. Practically speaking, this means that a long highway drive in fresh raw denim jeans causes the most significant transfer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn black leather, no one notices. On beige, light gray, cream, or cognac, the effect appears first as a dirty gray veil on the seat surface and inner bolsters, and later as a clear blue cast. If you ordered light leather, you know the spot: it sits exactly where the rear pocket rests.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe topcoat of automotive leather is smooth, but not mirror-smooth — it has an embossed grain with fine valleys, and that is where the dye collects. The protective film does not fill in this structure; it lowers the surface energy: dye and dirt adhere less effectively and stay on top. In other words, what can still be removed today with a mild \u003ca href=\"\/it\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-reinigung-lederreiniger-mild\"\u003eleather cleaner\u003c\/a\u003e would be embedded in a few weeks on untreated leather.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt should be noted that this does not make the seat \"immune.\" With very dark, unfixed raw denim fabrics and long drives, color will still transfer, it just becomes removable. If the blue cast is already set, the sealant is the wrong next step: in that case, you must first use a \u003ca href=\"\/it\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-reinigung-verfaerbungsentferner\"\u003estain remover\u003c\/a\u003e like COLOURLOCK \"GLD Solvent\" on the area, and only then apply the protective layer to the cleaned finish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe first three years decide everything that follows\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs long as the finish is closed, wear can be prevented. Once it is rubbed through, repairs begin — and that is another chapter.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCOLOURLOCK draws the line at about three years, which matches what we see. In this window, the topcoat is still complete, the leather has largely retained its softeners, and typical wear spots are at most only hinted at. A protective film has an intact base here that it can hold onto. Afterward, the task shifts from protection to maintenance and eventually to restoration.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe spots where it happens first are the same in almost every car: the outer side bolster of the driver's seat, which you slide over every time you get in and out, the entry edge, the steering wheel at the ten-to-two position, and the area next to the seatbelt buckle. Sport seats with high bolsters are affected earlier because the leg doesn't glide over them, it drags across them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\"New\" does not mean \"clean.\" Factory-fresh leather has manufacturing aids, release agent residues, and a film of hand oils from assembly, transport, and delivery. A protective film on this intermediate layer adheres poorly and lasts less time. That is why even on a new car, a pass with a mild cleaner is performed before anything protective touches the surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you don't want to put a kit together piece by piece, you can find the \"New Leather\" set bundled: our \u003ca href=\"\/it\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-sets-lederalter\"\u003ecare sets by leather age\u003c\/a\u003e are sorted exactly by this criteria; the COLOURLOCK \"New Leather Care\" set covers smooth leather up to three years old. For leasing and company cars, the math is especially simple: the return inspection looks exactly at the spots that a sacrificial layer protects.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eApply thinly instead of massaging it in thoroughly\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA few milliliters on the applicator, distribute in overlapping strokes, let it flash off, and you're done. Buffing is not intended for this product type.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe application is intentionally unspectacular. You apply the product to a soft applicator or a folded microfiber cloth—never directly to the seat—and draw straight, slightly overlapping strokes. The goal is a continuous, paper-thin film, not a wet sheen. After a short flash-off time, the surface dries to a satin matte finish. Because no waxy residues are created, the otherwise usual removal step is omitted.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePerforated seat surfaces require the most restraint. The holes are not a design element, but a function: the pigment and topcoat make leather nearly airtight, and the perforation brings that breathability back to the contact zone. For you, this means: if you massage product into the holes, you clog them and trade abrasion protection for a damp, warm back in the summer. A light, even application is perfectly sufficient.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTwo conditions determine the result. A seat heated by the sun causes the film to set too quickly, which leaves streaks and clouds — it is better to work in the shade or with the door open. And the flash-off time is not a matter for negotiation: anyone who sits down too soon will take a part of the fresh layer off with them on their trousers.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen reapplying, there is no intermediate step. The old layer has already worn off by that time, so nothing needs to be removed — a mild cleaning and the next thin application are sufficient. From our daily routine at Detailing1: the attempts that go wrong are almost always the ones with too much product and too little patience, never the ones with too little product.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eConditioning oil on new leather increases staining\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGreasy conditioners soften the topcoat. This makes it more susceptible to dye and more sensitive to friction, exactly the opposite of the goal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is the point where well-intentioned leather care backfires. Oil- and fat-rich products are intended for open-pored or dried-out leather, where they are supposed to penetrate the fibers. On a densely coated new leather, they never reach them: they remain in the finish and make it softer and more prone to swelling — and a softer topcoat absorbs indigo like dirt more readily and wears off faster. In light-colored interiors, this effect is clearly visible after one or two years.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThese are the exact cases we receive regularly: light-colored leather, treated for years with a greasy all-purpose product, and a gray veil on the seat surface that can no longer be wiped away. The cleaning then takes longer than the actual protective treatment, and a portion of the transfer remains visible. If the leather needs rehydration, it belongs in the appropriate category: the \u003ca href=\"\/it\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-pflege-lederpflegemilch\"\u003eleather conditioner\u003c\/a\u003e COLOURLOCK \"Leather Care\" works as a thin, breathable film and provides UV protection without softening the topcoat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe second hard limit is the material itself. Open-pored leathers like aniline, nubuck, and suede have no topcoat for a friction film to rest on. There, every film-forming treatment alters the look and feel, and edges are almost impossible to reverse — these leathers should be treated with \u003ca href=\"\/it\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-pflege-anilinleder\"\u003eaniline leather care\u003c\/a\u003e. Artificial leather behaves differently mechanically and gets its own \u003ca href=\"\/it\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-versiegelung-kunstleder\"\u003eartificial leather sealant\u003c\/a\u003e with COLOURLOCK \"Artificial Leather Protector.\"\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThere are three things this protective layer simply cannot do. It does not repair cracks, scratches, or worn-through spots; that is the job of the dye and repair line. It does not replace waterproofing against moisture; for that, \u003ca href=\"\/it\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-versiegelung-lederoel\"\u003eCOLOURLOCK \"Care \u0026amp; Waterproofing Oil\"\u003c\/a\u003e is available. And it is not the final topcoat after recoloring: the \u003ca href=\"\/it\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-faerben-oberflaechenschutz\"\u003e\"Top Life\" surface protection\u003c\/a\u003e is used at the end of the dyeing chain in the professional process, not in the routine maintenance of an intact seat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eYour leather decides the right protection\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTwo questions lead to the answer: Is the surface coated, and is it still intact? Everything else follows from that.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe water-drop test clarifies the first question. Place a drop on an inconspicuous spot. If it beads up and stays on the surface, you are dealing with pigmented smooth leather with a closed finish — the case for the \u003ca href=\"\/it\/products\/koch-chemie-colourlock-leather-shield-pflegemittel\"\u003egenuine leather sealant\u003c\/a\u003e COLOURLOCK \"Leather Shield,\" available as 100 ml for an interior and 1000 ml \/ 1 liter for ongoing detailing. If the drop is absorbed and darkens the spot, the leather is open-pored, and a film-forming protective layer has no business being there.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe second question is answered by a glance at the driver's side. If the side bolster, entry edge, and steering wheel are still evenly colored and matte, you are in the protection phase and in the right place. If they already show shiny spots, light-colored edges, or exposed primer, the protection phase is over: in that case, the path leads through cleaning and recoloring, and the protective layer only comes back into play at the very end.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the special cases alongside this, the short version applies. Artificial leather and leather\/artificial leather combinations, found more often in modern interiors than many think, get the artificial leather version. Wet inserts, convertible applications, and smooth leather outside the car go to waterproofing. Freshly dyed areas get the final topcoat from the repair line. The rest of the category stands one level higher under \u003ca href=\"\/it\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-versiegelung\"\u003eSealant \u0026amp; Waterproofing from COLOURLOCK\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnd the thought that carries the whole category: the difference between a ten-year-old interior that has aged evenly and a five-year-old one with a worn driver's bolster is rarely the mileage. It is the question of whether a sacrificial layer was on it in the first three years. COLOURLOCK earns its money by recoloring these exact spots — this category exists so that you never need that.\u003c\/p\u003e\n","products":[{"product_id":"koch-chemie-colourlock-leather-shield-pflegemittel","title":"COLOURLOCK \"Leather Shield\" prodotto per la cura della pelle nuova, protezione dall'usura","description":"\u003ch2\u003eMassima protezione dall'abrasione per la pelle nuova grazie a COLOURLOCK × Koch-Chemie Leather Shield\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eCome protegge la pelle nuova COLOURLOCK × Koch-Chemie Leather Shield? — Un polimero anti-attrito invisibile si posa sulla pelle come un film protettivo sottile, riduce l'abrasione su volante, battitacco e fianchetti dei sedili e mantiene la pelle nuova opaca e pulita in modo uniforme più a lungo.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCOLOURLOCK × Koch-Chemie Leather Shield\u003c\/strong\u003e è il tuo prodotto pro quando vuoi proteggere a lungo la pelle liscia appena uscita di fabbrica o come nuova da abrasione, screpolature, zone lucide e perdita di colore. La formula nasce dalla tecnologia pelle COLOURLOCK, unita alla chimica di sistema di Koch-Chemie — perfetta per auto nuove, rientri da leasing e lavori di dettaglio sull'interno. Leather Shield taglia corto sull'invecchiamento precoce che di solito vedi nelle zone più sollecitate e lascia una superficie opaca piacevole, dal tatto naturale.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eProtezione anti-attrito a lungo termine\u003c\/strong\u003e – Il film polimerico riduce l'usura meccanica su fianchetti, volante e zone d'accesso. La pelle tiene forma e colore più a lungo perché la micro-abrasione cala parecchio.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEffetto frena-lucido\u003c\/strong\u003e – Proprio la pelle nuova prende in fretta una lucidità indesiderata quando la usi. Leather Shield mantiene il look opaco ed evita le zone dall'aspetto unto, senza sigillare la superficie né renderla appiccicosa.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePulizia \u0026amp; manutenzione facile\u003c\/strong\u003e – Visto che cambia l'energia superficiale, lo sporco attacca meno. La pulizia dell'interno che segue va più veloce e più delicata, soprattutto insieme a un detergente pelle delicato.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eTecnologia di protezione per pelle nuova \u0026amp; comportamento della superficie\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIl cuore di \u003cstrong\u003eLeather Shield\u003c\/strong\u003e è un polimero finemente reticolato che si lega in modo mirato alle superfici di pelle liscia pigmentata, senza intaccarne la traspirabilità o il tatto. Nella pratica vuol dire che la tua pelle si comporta ancora in modo naturale, resta morbida, ma mostra molto meno lucido da attrito e micro-usura. Soprattutto sulle pelli auto moderne con strato di finitura in PU, i continui entra-esci, i bordi dei vestiti, i rivetti o le fibbie delle cinture fanno l'effetto di carta vetrata — e il film polimerico qui lavora come strato protettivo sacrificale. Stando ai dati del produttore, la ricetta è studiata per non accumularsi né screpolarsi, ma per consumarsi in modo uniforme e venire rinfrescata quando serve. Eviti gli errori classici come il deciso \"far penetrare\": Leather Shield rende al meglio se lo passi sottile, uniforme e ben evaporato.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003ePreparazione della pelle \u0026amp; il modo migliore per passarlo nel detailing\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePer la massima resa di \u003cstrong\u003eLeather Shield\u003c\/strong\u003e una preparazione accurata è decisiva. La pelle nuova o come nuova la pulisci prima con un detergente pelle delicato, per togliere i residui di lavorazione, i grassi corporei leggeri e le micro-sporcizie. Il prodotto lo passi con un applicatore morbido in passate dritte e sovrapposte, finché non ottieni un film omogeneo. Dopo un breve tempo di evaporazione la pelle asciuga opaca e setosa; di solito non serve la lucidatura finale, perché il prodotto non lascia residui a base di cera. Soprattutto nelle zone di dettaglio — volante, pelle della console, fianchetti — lavorare con precisione paga. Insieme a una pulizia delicata regolare, la protezione resta stabile. Per le auto che macinano chilometri come quelle aziendali o i daily driver, ha senso un richiamo trimestrale, dato che queste zone reggono più stress meccanico.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eRisultati, durata \u0026amp; impieghi tipici\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDopo aver passato \u003cstrong\u003eLeather Shield\u003c\/strong\u003e, il look della pelle resta opaco d'origine e libero da quel lucido unto che salta fuori in fretta sugli interni scuri. La durata dipende ovviamente da uso e materiale, visto che il prodotto si consuma meccanicamente come strato protettivo. Sulle auto di tutti i giorni i vantaggi spiccano di più: usura uniforme, meno pieghe e un lucido che arriva molto più tardi su fianchetti e volanti. Per le auto in leasing Leather Shield è quasi d'obbligo, perché frena l'invecchiamento visibile e mantiene stabile la resa dell'interno fino alla riconsegna. Anche nel detailing professionale il prodotto convince come parte di un processo di cura della pelle sistematico, perché non è siliconico né sovra-nutriente e si sposa alla perfezione con i detergenti delicati e una successiva cura con conditioner.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eDomande frequenti su COLOURLOCK × Koch-Chemie Leather Shield\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003ePosso usare Leather Shield anche su pelle più vecchia?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSì, ma le superfici più vecchie puliscile bene prima e rinfrescale leggermente se serve. Sulla pelle molto secca un conditioner aiuta in più. Detto questo, il prodotto rende al meglio sulle superfici come nuove.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eOgni quanto devo rinnovare Leather Shield?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCon un uso normale, più o meno ogni tre-cinque mesi. Le zone molto sollecitate come i fianchetti d'accesso o i volanti traggono vantaggio da un richiamo più frequente.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eIl prodotto crea un lucido unto?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNo. Leather Shield è dichiaratamente opacizzante e mantiene la superficie naturale, senza accumularsi né diventare lucido.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eIl prodotto va bene per i sedili traforati?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSì, finché lo passi sottile e non lo \"massaggi\" dentro la traforatura. Una mano leggera e uniforme basta e avanza.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003ePosso usare un conditioner dopo Leather Shield?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSì. Prima pulisci, poi Leather Shield come protezione anti-attrito, infine un conditioner per la morbidezza. Così hai protezione e cura in un sistema coordinato.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003csmall\u003eUltimo aggiornamento: 02\/12\/2025 — Autore: Daniel (Detailing1)\u003c\/small\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Koch-Chemie × COLOURLOCK","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":56320174555471,"sku":"D1-KCX-479-1L-01","price":40.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"100ml","offer_id":56320174621007,"sku":"D1-KCX-479-100ML-01","price":11.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/479-1L-01_1.png?v=1762115755"}],"url":"https:\/\/detailing1.co\/it\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-versiegelung-echtleder.oembed","provider":"Detailing1","version":"1.0","type":"link"}