ZviZZer Thermo Allrounder Pad "Ultra Hard" thermo-schuimpad (Blauw) 1 stuk

Polishing out deep scratches with full cutting power

What is the ZviZZer Thermo Allrounder Pad Ultra Hard? A blue thermo-foam pad with the highest cut level, providing maximum material removal for heavy corrections and deep scratches on both random orbital and rotary polishers. An additional rubber support layer maintains its shape and distributes pressure evenly. Not intended for the finishing step or for soft, sensitive clear coats.

The ZviZZer Thermo Allrounder Pad Ultra Hard is a polishing pad from ZviZZer made of open-cell thermo-foam, marked as blue in the five-stage color system, representing the hardest cut level. Between the Velcro and the foam sits a black rubber support layer that evenly distributes downforce and prevents polish from soaking into the backing plate. The thermo-foam remains dimensionally stable even under frictional heat and delivers constant cutting power for heavy corrections. Supplied as 1 piece with a Velcro backing.

• Highest of 5 cut levels. At ZviZZer, blue stands for Ultra Hard, indicating the highest level of material removal among the 5 grades. The pad removes deep scratches and severe holograms that a medium or soft pad cannot handle. It is tuned for the most powerful sanding stage, Pre-Cut.
• Rubber support layer for even pressure. Unlike the Trapez pad, only the Allrounder has a 3rd layer: a black rubber support layer between the Velcro and the thermo-foam. It makes the machine run more smoothly, transfers pressure evenly across large surfaces, and keeps the polish in the foam rather than in the backing plate.
• Five sizes from 50 to 165 mm. The pad is available in Ø 50, 70, 90, 140, and 165 mm with a 20 mm core height. The large 140s and 165s quickly cover hoods and doors, while the small 50s and 70s reach mirrors and edges. The thermo-foam lasts up to six times longer than a standard foam pad.

Practical tip from Detailing1: The most common mistake with an ultra-hard pad is using too much pressure while staying in one spot for too long. If you lean on the machine, heat builds up, and the pad itself creates fine holograms that you will then have to polish out again. Work with the weight of the machine and light pressure, moving in passes rather than focusing on a single spot, and brush out the pad every two to three sections. On weathered Audi A4 paint, a clogged pad only caused smears for us.

Apply Pre-Cut polish and work in passes

The Ultra-Hard pad works with the most powerful sanding stage: apply a pea-sized amount of polish to the pad, distribute it at a low speed, and then work it in with light pressure in overlapping passes until the defects disappear.

A prerequisite is clean, masked paint—washed and decontaminated so that no particles become embedded in the pad and create new scratches. The blue pad is color-coordinated with the powerful PC 5000 Pre Cut sanding polish. Work in sections of about 40 by 40 centimeters and check after each area.

Keep the pad clean: brush out the polishing dust after two to three sections or switch to a second pad; a clogged pad will only smear. After polishing, wash out with lukewarm water and a bit of pad cleaner, then air-dry lying flat—never on a heater—to keep the thermo-foam dimensionally stable.

Heavy correction yes, finishing no

The Ultra-Hard pad is made for heavy correction: deep scratches, severe holograms, and weathered clear coat are its core specialty; it is not for the final high-gloss finish.

Its strength is maximum removal. Where a medium or soft pad needs multiple passes or fails to get through entirely, the hard blue pad with Pre-Cut polish removes the defects in one step. The rubber support layer keeps the pressure even across a large hood, rather than cutting only under the edge of the plate.

The limits are clear: such a hard pad usually leaves behind a light sanding pattern after heavy correction, which a second step with a softer pad and finer polish will remove. On soft, sensitive clear coats—such as many Japanese paints—the Ultra Hard is quickly too aggressive and causes its own holograms. In that case, the one-grade-softer Hard Pad in red is the safer choice.

This leads to the if-then logic of hardness selection. If there are deep defects and hard paint, then choose Ultra Hard in blue with Pre-Cut. If there are medium defects or softer paint, choose one step softer and a finer polish. Harder means more cut, softer means better finish.

For heavy correction, not a quick freshen-up

The pad is the right choice when real defects need to be removed: neglected paint with deep scratches, holograms from incorrect previous preparation, or years of weathering where raw cutting power counts.

Because it works on both random orbital and rotary polishers, it fits everyone from the ambitious dual-action beginner to the professional using a rotary. Ultra Hard is the starting point of a multi-step setup, not a pad for occasional use. You can find the appropriate hardness level in the Polishing Pads and Sanding Sponges category.

The hard pad is less suitable if the paint is actually in good condition and only needs a gloss refresh. For light swirls, a medium pad is sufficient; for pure high-gloss, a soft one—the ultra-hard pad would unnecessarily remove material, and clear coat is thin and finite at about 40 to 50 micrometers.

The one point many underestimate: during heavy correction, the pad determines the result more than the polish. The same Pre-Cut polish cuts noticeably more aggressively on the ultra-hard blue pad than on a soft one. Through this pad change, you control the stages—with one polish and the ZviZZer pad system from blue to green, you cover the entire spectrum from heavy correction to finish.

Using the ZviZZer Thermo Allrounder Pad Ultra Hard

From deep scratches to a perfectly corrected surface

Before polishing, the paintwork must be clean: washed, decontaminated, and masked at the edges. Otherwise, residues of tar or industrial fallout will settle into the pad and cause new scratches on the surface.

Apply a pea-sized amount of PC 5000 Pre Cut to the blue pad, spread it across the surface at a low speed, and then work it in using overlapping passes with light pressure until the defects disappear. Work with the machine’s own weight, not body force — otherwise, heat will build up.

Work in sections of about 40 by 40 centimeters and brush out or change the pad after two to three sections. A clogged pad will only smear and will no longer provide any cut. After the heavy correction, a second step with a softer pad and finer polish is usually required to remove the sanding marks.

After polishing, wash the pad with lukewarm water and a little pad cleaner, squeeze it out, and let it air dry lying flat. You can find other hardness levels for the finer steps in the polishing pads and sanding sponges category.

Notes: The Ultra Hard pad is intended for heavy correction, not for finishing — the final high-gloss requires a softer pad and a finer polish. On soft, sensitive clear coats, Ultra Hard is quickly too aggressive and will induce holograms; in that case, work with a softer grade in red. Never dry the pad on a radiator or in direct sunlight, otherwise the thermo foam will lose its dimensional stability. Store in a dry and clean place.